Edge profile for Khuks

Maqua

Maqua

Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
2,396
I've read the sharpening article regarding khuks, but I lack the tools to mainatin a convex edge. Anyone here just use bench stones to reprofile the edge to a flat edge/flat grind/whatever it is called, or will this reduce the effectiveness of the knife? I'm just looking for the simplest edge to maintain in the field, and I don't think I'll be packin' a belt grinder around.

I should receive my new chiruwa ang khola tomorrow or the day after. I'm pretty fired up about it, unlike when I think about the 4 years I have to wait for my Randall Made to arrive. Even the F/A-22 Raptor gets built quicker than that.

I can't wait to put stuff to the chop.
 
Maq,
I wouldn't sweat the convex edge too much. it's pretty easy to maintain as well as put on. It takes time without any power tools, though. I don't have any of these tools to speak of, but I have found the sandpaper mouse pad/sanding block method paired with a large butcher's steel and an old leather belt to be ideal for my needs. While my khuks are Dan Koster sharp, they are sharp enough to shave the hair off my arm and make wood chips fly;) Once you get a good convex edge going you'll find that you'll probably be able to maintain it in field with a chakma...if the chakma is hard enough. Uncle Bill once said that he didn't carried files or stones with him out into the field as any damage the blade suffered could be worked out well enough with the chakma until he returned home to repair the edge. At least I THINK he said that. It's been awhile. Personally, i pack a butcher's steel in my pack when i go camping. A couple licks and my edge is back to a good enough edge.
You can put a flat grind on the edge of khuk, but you'll be sheating yourself out of half the fun of profiling and maintaining the toughest edge you can put on a knife.
Do a search on convexing with sandpaper and see what pops up. Or, e-mail me and i'll run through my own jack-legged way of convexing. OR, if you ask Yvsa really nice he might teach ya a thing or two;) He's the man.

Good luck!
Jake
 
Maquahuitl said:
I lack the tools to mainatin a convex edge.
Click to expand...
You can do this with a simple stone, you just arc the stone over the edge matching the curvature. It sounds a lot harder than it is in practice.

-Cliff
 
If the convex edge is already properly done, a mousepad and sandpaper is all you need to keep it sharp. These things were made to chop, not shave (although mine do both).

If I were to actually have a tool in the field with me, it'd be a med/fine Duo-Fold diamond sharpener.

If you need to reprofile, then either a belt grinder or a lot of time is needed. The belt grinder is a lot easier.

I would *never* sacrifice a convex edge for a set angle...you'd lose ease of maintenance, strength and durability.

.
.
 
Steely_Gunz said:
Maq,
I wouldn't sweat the convex edge too much. it's pretty easy to maintain as well as put on. It takes time without any power tools, though. I don't have any of these tools to speak of, but I have found the sandpaper mouse pad/sanding block method paired with a large butcher's steel and an old leather belt to be ideal for my needs. Good luck!
Jake
Click to expand...

I would also add that using the above stuff the convex is easier to maintain than a flat ground edge in my experience.
 
Nasty said:
If the convex edge is already properly done, a mousepad and sandpaper is all you need to keep it sharp.


I would *never* sacrifice a convex edge for a set angle...you'd lose ease of maintenance, strength and durability.
.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with this!
 
Excellent...I'll keep with the convex edge. I have a DMT pocket diamond hone (blue) I use for other big blades, so I'll just put that to use.
 
I think it was Yvsa who pointed out that if you freehand sharpen
you ultimately end up with a convex grind of some sort
no matter what you start with.

So just sharpen it as needed,
then one day
ta-da......
Convex

To keep a perfect flat takes the effort

The trick in sharpening a convex edge freehand
especially on a khuk
is making the whole edge sharp at the same time.
Or rather, not dulling one part of the edge
while sharpening the adjacent part.

Practice practice practice......................
The heavy double curve adds to the challenge.
Do not use a wide stone;
while one part of the curve hits just right
another part of the curve is getting dull.
That's where the sandpaper/flexible backing helps;
it conforms a bit to the shape of the blade.

Aha! . . . . www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1406507&postcount=13

go here:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2423414#post2423414
& scroll down to find a list of old convex/sharpening threads.

Oh.............& welcome.

~
~~~~~~~~~
<> THEY call me 'Dean' :)-fYI-fWiW-iIRC-JMO-M2C-YMMV-TiA-YW-GL-HH-HBd-IBSCUtWS-theWotBGUaDUaDUaD
<> Tips <> Baha'i Prayers Links --A--T--H--D
 
I have a big 3 sided diamond steel I use to even the overall edge out first (on the ones that need it) Then I go to the sandpaper.
 
Maquahuitl said:
I've read the sharpening article regarding khuks, but I lack the tools to mainatin a convex edge. Anyone here just use bench stones to reprofile the edge to a flat edge/flat grind/whatever it is called, or will this reduce the effectiveness of the knife? I'm just looking for the simplest edge to maintain in the field, and I don't think I'll be packin' a belt grinder around.

I should receive my new chiruwa ang khola tomorrow or the day after. I'm pretty fired up about it, unlike when I think about the 4 years I have to wait for my Randall Made to arrive. Even the F/A-22 Raptor gets built quicker than that.

I can't wait to put stuff to the chop.
Click to expand...
I asked Kami Sherpa about edge profiles a few years ago. He was of the opinion that the convex edge was superior for field tasks, but a straight profile was better for potential martial application.

I agree that the convex profile is superior for field tasks, because of the greater strength of the edge. I'm not sure that the difference in slicing ability is really enough to warrant another type of edge for the soldier. In my experience those convex edges can be pretty sharp. If chopping of wood is going to be done frequently, consider that a rounded axe-like profile will bind in the wood less than a flat profile.

Some people even do "differential sharpening" varying the edge profile along the length of the blade. For instance, you can use convex by the sweet spot, and flatter on the lower section for slicing, drawknife type work, etc.

I usually just use a hand sharpener to touch up an edge. Convex or flat edges are both fairly easy to sharpen in the field. I don't worry about the edge profile when I touch up a blade, I just sharpen it. I do think modern diamond sharpeners and ceramic hones are superior to the traditional chakma for touching up an edge. They can align the steel as a chakma does, but they will also sharpen in the process. I find them a more effecient way to maintain an edge in the field. I mounted a ceramic rod in a deer antler handle, and it's about the size of a chakma. It would fit well in a khukuri scabbard.

It would be interesting to have the kamis try out ceramics. I bet they would love them. Quite a few years ago I bought 12 or so short ceramic rods for $3. They work great. I wonder if similar rods are still available at low prices. I ve heard of people scavenging ceramic rods from various places, like old sodium light bulbs. I think it would be a valuable experiment to try marketing a ceramic sharpener for carry with a khukuri. One drawback is that the ceramics will break if you drop them on the rocks.

The round diamond rods also fit well in a scabbard. They take off more metal than a ceramic hone, but are also more expensive and high tech. Diamond sharpeners are also prone to more variations in quality than ceramic hones.
 
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