Edge Quench Oil Fires With Parks 50

Henry Cambron

Henry Cambron

www.worldclassknives.com
Joined
Nov 30, 2006
Messages
218
I'm having a serious problem with flame-ups when I edge quench in Parks 50. Is there anyway to do an edge quench without all the fire? Without using clay, etc. I grabbed my spray bottle of 50/50 Simple Green mix and it extinguished the flames but is it safe to use over and over?
Thanks
 
I agree with Sam. If you're set on differential heat treating, you'll have to live with the flames (and the fact that you're not really getting the benefit of Parks), switch to clay or switch from differential heat treating to differential tempering.
 
edge quenching is a stupid idea and ruins the oil. Either fully harden and draw the spine or use clay if you want differential hardening. Why would anyone want a knife with a pearlite spine? Seriously!


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Parks has a low flash point. If you want an edge quench without flames use canola. It has a much higher flash point.
 
sunshadow said:
edge quenching is a stupid idea and ruins the oil. Either fully harden and draw the spine or use clay if you want differential hardening. Why would anyone want a knife with a pearlite spine? Seriously!


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Click to expand...

Someone who wanted to pass their JS or MS test with ease might be one example.
 
Edge quenching has it's place and nothing wrong with it. It just that Park's 50 is not a good choice for this.
 
Thanks guys. I did not realize edge quenching would ruin the oil. I used canola oil before but I was only getting a Rockwell in the 40's (that was with a single quench).

I want the quench line to show as part of the design, that's why I do an end quench.

I don't have a torch set up so I can't fully harden and then draw the spine.

I've got a 50# bag of satanite. I guess I'll have to switch over.
 
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