Edge Quench Questions

etp777

etp777

Joined
Aug 12, 2002
Messages
2,259
OK all, I want your input here on edge quenching. First off, right now, still am just using ATF for quenching, and yes, I know that's not the optimum choice, but it seems to be working wellf or now.

So anyways, trying to improve with each knife I make, so while I did full quenches on previous knives, I decided to try edge quenching this time. I got a board(I need to replace this with something that won't float) to help define quenching depth in the ammo can I keep the fluid in. So I pull out knife after it's nonmagnetic(and then a bit), and quench edge, rolling some to make sure I get full lentgh of edge and tip. My only problem was flameup, which was pretty bad. So any advicde on edge quenching in general, and avoiding flameup in particular?

If you insist on suggesting another quench, it needs to be something relatively cheap still, as I am just now this monday going to sell my first blade, so initial outlays on all of this are still coming as straight out of pocket expense.

Oh yeah, forgot. :) This was with O1, a small skinner. I'll post a picture after I finish it, though knife is not of my design. I have 440, but going to send any blades from that to Texasknife or Paul Bos.
 
Sounds like you got the idea, but a comercial quench should limit the flame-ups.

A good substitute that doesnt flame up bad is mineral oil, I beleive you can get a good suply from your local vet, shouldn't be too much. Or you can do like me, get used to no hair on your arm:D
 
I use Goddards Goop quenchant. 40% Lard, 40% parafin, and 20% ATF.

I still get a flameup now and then but it doesnt stink too bad. Smells like a beef scented candle:rolleyes:

I dont know if you are doing this, but preheat your ATF a bit before quenching. Makes it less violent and might control some of the flameup too. I cracked an O1 blade because I did not preheat the quench.

How I do it is take a piece of scrap steel and heat it in the forge before your blade and when it is orange hot, dunk it in the quench. In my shop, my quench almost always goes to 140F this way.
 
Thanks for the tips you two, will try preheating it next time, and will maybe pick up some mineral oil next time I get paid.

I was planning on preheating the ATF this time. Had a rat tail from a file that I had sharpened down to make my own scribe, was gonna heat treat and then quench that to harden it and preheat oil at same time, but lost it down in the coals. :) Oh well, I'll get it next time
 
This is a method that I got from Ted McMinn... We use olive oil for the quench medium, and it works great. I bought a 1 gal can of olive oil, and i cut 1/2 of the top back so that I can quench large blades tip down in it. I believe that the olive oil can will allow you to do blades with up to a 10 inch edge. For my smaller blades and springs that I use on folders, I've filled an old tin soup can with the olive oil. It's a lot easier to fish the small parts out of the soup can then the 1 gal olive oil can.

-chris
 
I use Texaco Type A but you all say its hard to find. I got mine free from a man that repaired Otis Elevators. They use it because of the flame retardant additive. It looks bad when a building catches on fire and the elevator oil burns everyone up. It is just farm hydraulic oil with a flame retardant additive ATF will flame up too much and you will end up heat-treating your whole arm someday. Ive used olive oil with good results but it gets punky smelling with time. Godards goop sounds good although I havent tried it yet. Yes dont forget to warm the quench oil to about 125 deg. F. Use a candy thermometer.
 
Just a quick run down on what I do.
I use Texaco HT oil.
Just about any oil will work but I have never cracked a blade in this stuff.
Use an old waffle maker folded open under my quench tank to warm up the oil. $6 at Goodwill store.
Use a cut up piece of a 5gal paint screen the kind painters use in their 5gal buckets to get the excess paint off their rollers.

Cut to size, mounted on 4 pieces of 1/4" allthread, nuts and washers to secure and easy to adjust.

Flareups---Just cover all of the area you don't need with a piece of sheet metal. Keeps you safer and flareups go out fast.
 
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