Edge retention and stainless

J

jmCaz

Joined
May 3, 2005
Messages
5
Hello all.

What do you think that is the better knife (folding or fixed blade) observing two only characteristics:

1 - Edge retention
2 - Really stainless

I've got two great knives, both with VG10 steel blade (AlMar S.E.R.E. 2000 and Fällkniven A1) and they seems to be the better knives that I can find, but (except Talonite or other steel alloy) I think that maybe other brands or other models can be better in those aspects.

Thank you.
:)
 
Depends on what it's getting used for, but I think overall edge retention is more important to me.
 
There are plenty of stainless steels that retain an edge well so this really isn't an issue for me. s30v, VG-10, etc.
 
It depends on what the knife is to be used for. If it is to be used for fishing then stainless is important but a good stainless has edge retention so it is a moot point really. Otherwise one of the important factors is selecting a steel is edge retention.
 
WadeF said:
There are plenty of stainless steels that retain an edge well so this really isn't an issue for me. s30v, VG-10, etc.
Click to expand...

There you go. Perfect answer. I have VG-10 knives, love it.
 
if those are your only two items you want then talonite/stellite ,,although they really are not steel ,,,they are pretty much immune to rusting . and are very good at holding an edge . hard to sharpen though
if the price is prohibitive then 440c is high on the stainless scale as are the others mentioned
 
Hello all.

Certainly, the most important is the edge retention. A blade with a damaged (or without edge) is only a metal piece.
The problem is my hand sweat. It's more corrosive than the usual and it's a big problem when I must manipulate some tools (f.e., my Leatherman Wave or P.S.T. II) with the typical rust points, except when I put on its surface a lot of oil (but I hate to use a tool and find my hands plenty of oil after).

I love the camping (wild camping, not to mount my tent in a filed with dozens of other tents) and my S.E.R.E. and my A-1 must be used for cutting wood or ropes and for preparing the game, so I need a very sharpen edges (without carrying and continuous using my Lansky Sharpener or other similar things).

I have got a fabulous Spyderco Endura (VG-10 too) but the difficult for sharpening the serrated edge without a specific stone and his handle seemingly weaker than the AlMar's, do that the majority of the occasions remains in house.

In spite of raised of his price, I would like to have a Chris Reeve Sebenza, but I am not sure of the result that I can obtain with it (due to my problem with the corrosion).

Curiously, the only folding knives with which I have not had any problem of corrosion (except, as I said, with the VG-10 steel blades) , are the Victorinox, but their edge retention is not too high.

Thank you
:)
 
Remember that it's not just the steel in the blade but also the finish that can contribute to stain resistance (or lack thereof). A beadblasted finish, even in something like 420J or AUS6, can rust up supprisngly fast if you're not careful. A highly polished satin finish on a blade made from not-very stainless D2 or S30V adds quite a bit of stain resistance. I've let my satin D2 blades sit around without care and they show nary a hint of oxidation, while a beadblasted ATS-34 blade that I've almost literally soaked in Tuf-Glide still gets rust spots.

A lot of it also has to do with the intended use and your climate. While I'm confident that a D2, VG-10, or S30V blade, or even my A2 bladed Severtechs (which granted, are coated) can easily take the humid monsoon climate sitting in my front pocket, they'd rust before my eyes inside my waistband, where I keep my secondary serrated folder. I had this problem with my Spyderco Rescue in VG-10. Instead, I carry an Atlantic Salt, which while edge retention is quite a bit lower (but still acceptable), the H1 blade simply will not rust.

So...short answer: As rust resistant as is necessary for yourself personally, but if edge retention is important to you, ONLY as rust resistant as is necessary.
 
I think you can have both stain resistance and edge retention from today's steels (like AUS-8, GIN-1, ATS-55, VG-10, 440C, S30V, to name a few).

ATS-34 does'nt seem to rust very easily but I have had it stain.

I think some folks are still living in the past when it comes to blade-steel.
In the "olden days" you either had carbon steel that would hold a great edge for a long while, or you had "stainless" that would'nt rust easily but would dull quickly.
But there have been so many advances in steel technology that this simply is'nt true these days.

Good luck,
Allen.
 
allenC said:
But there have been so many advances in steel technology that this simply is'nt true these days.

Good luck,
Allen.
Click to expand...

man you said it perfect.

i say the same thing to customers all the time. They tell me that they don't want stainless because it won't hold an edge. well sorry thats not true. maybe 420J2 or 440a won't hold an edge but i can tell you several stainless blades that will definetly hold an edge. or they say "they don't make steel like they used to." well sir your right in away. they make steel better than they used too. with todays technology why would they make shittier steel and charge you more? doesn't make sense.
thank you my rant is over.

p.s. i hate uneducated rednecks,

i had one redneck tell me he was a custom knife maker and that i was lying to his wife. i told her then buck knife she was looking at had 420HC. he said that there was only 2 types of steel. 440c and 154cm. well after proving him wrong he said that it was a conspericy. that companies pay steel manufactors to name it what they want. damn i hate uneducated people

i am done for good this time.
 
Thank you very much to all.

As always, it is difficult to do a correct election.
Every day new technologies and materials appear so we will have to continue looking and waiting for the " perfect knife ".

Thank you again.

Greetings
 
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