edge straightening and handle sanding questions

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Sep 22, 2003
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I got my 12" AK Villager and have been messing with it.

Cool little blade with the Nepali writing and symbols, steel fittings and wood handle.

Chops decent, but up against the Pen Knife which is the same length the Pen Knife is better. The AK is just shy of 12 oz. The Pen Knife is 15oz.

Anyway I got some of it shaving sharp but other parts not. What I need somebody to tell me is how do you deal with the edge being uneven? On one part of the belly and on about a 1" section of the curved part going toward the cho there are nicks and bumps in the edge. I don't think it has ever been chopped with before, I think this must be due to forging?

So through taking the edge back the one on the belly is just about smoothed out. If you look at the edge straight on under light you can still see the little nick or flat place where it dips, but the bump is gone. The bad place in the curve dips then rises then dips again. So should I try to sharpen this out? Or should I just file across the top of it to make it smooth and then re sharpen the whole edge? I am trying to decide which is more work.

Also I'd like to smooth out the handle some and put some linseed on it. No problem on the clear part of the handle, but the little angled ring around the handle: What's the best way to sand that little part? Steel wool? Or some sandpaper on a thin peice of wood?

This is a cool little knife with a really neat handle and the satin finish and steel fittings are great. I think despite the small size the karda may have the best edge of any I have ever got:)
 
Dude,
It's hard to talk about without seeing the problem.

If I understand your concern...I would have to say it can be a big job...or at least a tricky one. Your depressions may may go from little ones to big unless you work the whole edge. It is easy to go too far and hate the end result.

If it doesn't affect the performance of the khuk I would get it sharp and leave it alone. If you are a little leary of tackling it yourself...I'll take a look at it. If I can't help...I won't touch it. No charge if you will cover shipping.

Let me know.

Shane
 
HD if you had one of the DMT Duo-Folds it would be easy to sharpen. They're only a tad over 7/8" wide and so will fit in the curve of the khuks.
A piece of sandpaper on a small stick is the best way to sand the ring, or if you're careful you can just use a smooth file. I have some jeweler's files that work really well in such circumstances.
It's possible that one of the diamond nail files will work just as well.:)
 
The best way to get an even edge throughout is to get a single cut mill bastard file (Nicholson brand - 8" or 10" min.), clamp the knife flat to a piece of scrap wood, clamp that to your table and have at it. Try your best to match the angle of the bevel, but don't worry about having it perfect. The first few passes, it will seem like you're not doing anything at all. Have patience and pretty soon you'll start to see it working. The reason for a 10" file is to keep your hands as far away from the edge as possible, and still have room for a two-handed stoke (draw-filing). If that's not cutting well enough, then try wrapping a piece of coarse emery cloth around the file - that'll do it. ;)

Since it's a lil' villager, no worries, right?
 
I'm using about a 10" 3 sided diamond steel. The coarse side takes plenty of steel off.

My question is on the irregular parts of the blade where there are dips and valleys in the edge:

Should I just take the steel and go flat across the top of the edge, dulling it but evening it out quickly, and then go back and re sharpen it?

Or should I continue to sharpen the edge at the proper angle and just work my way back till I have "sharpened out" the irregularities?

Parts of the edge I have already got shaving sharp, it's just the irregular areas need evened out.
 
Cliff,

I think I am going to take both of your suggestions. I think I am just going to sharpen past the place on the belly where there is like a step down on the edge. On the area on the curve where it alternately dips and rises I am going to flatten it out and then sharpen it.

One of my favorite khukuris is like you describe: The edge isn't perfectly curved but it's sharp. But rather than kind of flat places the irregular area on this little one goes up and down to the point that you end up with too many places that aren't getting any metal taken off. So I am going to flatten it then sharpen. Steel seems well tempered so I figure I'll be OK taking some off.
 
Thanks Y'all,

Worked on it this evening. Steeled the edge even then sharp then 600 grit then strop now hair poppin sharp!:cool:
 
I just got a 12 AK villager off the forum specials. Did a little work on the handle, mostly with a half round needle file. Then sandpaper and 4/0 steel wool.
Anyone recognize the kami marks?
 
I'm real impressed guys - keep up the good work!
 
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