Edge thickness of the Ratmandu?

Too thick-my HRLM came in at around 60 degrees inclusive. I thinned it out to 30, took a heck of alot of Wet and Dry sandpaper, ibuprophen and time, but it was worth it. The Sr101 takes an extremely fine edge and keeps it that way. The only knife I own that comes close in edge retention is Christof Harper's scandivex 15N20.
 
Sorry,I meant the actual thickness of the steel at the top of the edge bevel,
not the degree of bevel itself.
And I agree in your preferred edge bevel in that I prefer approx. 25 degree per side for an all round cutting edge,
(unless it's going to see extreme use,then the factory bevel suits).
 
PayetteRucker said:
Too thick-my HRLM came in at around 60 degrees inclusive. I thinned it out to 30, took a heck of alot of Wet and Dry sandpaper, ibuprophen and time, but it was worth it. The Sr101 takes an extremely fine edge and keeps it that way. The only knife I own that comes close in edge retention is Christof Harper's scandivex 15N20.
Click to expand...

Same opinion here and good to know about my new stead knife.:thumbup:;)
 
For now my HRLM is definitely my stead knife. Be very insanely precise and deliberate about applying the new edge, even if it takes hours upon hours-once you get it shaving the first time, all it takes is the occasional pass with 2000 grit and the blade stays shaving sharp. People rant and rave about these Bussekin steels-they really do work. You just have to manipulate it a bit :)
 
It took me about 7-8 hours on the Sharpmaker diamond rods, maybe more, to thin my RMD down to 30 inclusive. I wish I could be more precise, but I think I zoned out for long periods of time.

A previous, similar operation on the Swamp Warden took about two hours, so either the RMD is a lot harder, or my diamond rods are just shot. I'm guessing the latter...

However, 15-per-side with no microbevel really screams.
 
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