Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Some time ago Rusty loaned me a few blades from Ontario, I thought I had
sent them back to him but they turned up last week when I was cleaning up my
closet, yes I am that organized. In any case I figured I would clean them up
before I sent them back to him and while I was at it put decent working
bevels on the blades, as NIB the cutting ability is not anywhere near where
it should be for a decent working knife. It struck me then that this would
serve as a useful way to showcase the difference in performance just
changing the edge bevel can make, and while I knew what to expect with
normal cutting I had not done enough work chopping to make a solid estimate
so I was curious myself about quantification.
I started off with the Marine Raider Bowie. It is a solid knife, one of the
few Ontario blades I have seen without gross manufacturing flaws. This is a
big chopping class knife with a 10" blade of 1095 carbon steel. It is
decently heavy at 600 g with a blade heavy balance (2.25" in front of center
of index finger), so it has quite a solid heft in hand. All of this
indicates that it should chop fairly well. However the primary grind is
sabre-flat and fairly obtuse at about 7 degrees. The edge bevel is even
worse, about 20 degrees near the choil and getting more obtuse towards the
tip where it maxes out at about 25 degrees. From memory I recall actually
thinning this somewhat when I last sharpened it so it was probably a few
degrees higher NIB.
Getting past the numbers how does it actually chop? I spent some time
cutting up small wood (2.5-3.5") with it and the Wildlife Hatchet from
Gransfors Bruks. Right from the start it was obvious that the bowie was not
in the same class as the hatchet, it could not come close to matching the
penetration. The median performance through 30 cuts (364 chops) put the
bowie at a rank of 63 +/- 3, with the Bruks hatchet at 100. Thus the bowie
is far behind and it will readily take a performance loss on large wood and
thus fall further behind because it will not have the penetration necessary
to open up the wood. Some few test runs on larger wood (4"+) verified this,
and on that class of wood the bowie's performance was only at about 40% of
that of the hatchet.
Even worse than the problem with raw penetration, because of the obtuse edge
and primary grind the bowie would glance far too easily. It could not cut at
the angles that you would want for optimal penetration and thus you are
forced to work at higher angles which will significantly effect penetration.
There were also problems with the handle. While I no longer found the grip
abrasive, the end hook is far too sharp and you can't drive off of it
without it generating excessive pressure on your pinky. As well some trials
with a bit of oil on the handle resulted in the blade becoming very unstable
in hand and being hit with a performance loss of about 40 %. The hatchet is
not as strongly effected as its chopping performance doesn't depend as much
on the followup drive after the blade hits the wood.
To clarify method, I was chopping felled wood at about waist height using
full force swings. I experimented with various contact areas along the
length of the blade on the bowie and found that for me the optimum
performance was obtained when I chopped pretty much right in front of the
choil. As I went out on the blade, yes the speed of the knife at the contact
point was increased, but I found that I could not drive as strongly into the
wood because of the leverage disadvantage and that the performance suffered
by about 15% at maximum. Of course if your chopping style is different so
will be the optimal impact point, if you chop depending more on speed then
you will want to move further out on the blade.
Ok, so the knife suffers a large chopping disadvantage, how does it cut? I
tested this by whittling six points on one inch hardwood dowels. The bowie
took 29 +/- 3 cuts to make a point. This is rather poor performance. The
blade does not bite in deeply into the wood and the thick profile forces a
lot of splitting of the chips. The Bruks hatchet easily outperforms the
bowie carving much larger chips, with less effort.
With the cutting done I then proceeded to modify the edge profile. First I
used a one inch belt sander to strip away excess metal from the edge which
was brought down to a 12-13 degree bevel. I also hit the primary grind a
few times, not enough to significantly remove any metal, but just to get a
feel for how much work it would take to put a full height flat grind on the
blade (more than I would want to do). After the shaping I used 15 micron
sandpaper to remove the burr and do a preliminary sharpening. After this
was finished (20 or so strokes per side), the blade would shave, but
roughly. I then cleaned up the bevel with some five Micron SiC, and finished
with some stropping on leather loaded with CrO, the blade would now have
smoothly. Because the leather gave somewhat under the sandpaper, this
introduced a secondary edge bevel of about 15 degrees over the last 0.04" of
the edge.
Back to the hardwood dowel, the bowie showed a huge change in bite, it now
sank much deeper into the wood. The blade removed much larger chips of wood
you could easily pick out the before and after chips. The bowie would now
point the dowels only requiring 14 +/- 1 cuts. This was a performance
increase of about 100%. Note that this result is a little skewed because of
the effect of fatigue, but only I would estimate by a few percent.
With the new edge profile I repeated the chopping. The Marine Raider bowie
showed an obvious improvement in penetration. Just a few chops showed it to
now be in the same class as the small hatchet. A total of 57 cuts (502
chops) produced a median performance rank of 95 +/- 4. This was almost a 50%
increase in chopping performance. Besides the raw increase in penetration, I
noticed that the problem with glancing was significantly reduced and I could
work with the angles just slightly higher than optimal. The obvious question
that came to mind was in regards to durability, however the edge suffered no
problems with the lower angle. After all the chopping the edge was not
visibly damaged. It could even still scrape one or two hairs off my arm on a
pass. Note this was not clear wood being cut either, I would estimate that
one out of every ten or so cuts was through a knot.
In regards to sharpening, the knife could still slice paper after the
chopping, although it had to be within 0.5 inches of the holding point to
start the cut. The edge feels aggressive, but requires about 3.5 cm to cut
through 1/4" poly under a 1000 g load. Checking the edge under magnification
reveals damage on the order of 0.05 - 0.1 mm, or 50-100 micron. The edge in
the damaged area looks to have been impacted/deflected. A quick session of
stropping (10 passes per side) on CrO loaded leather increases the
performance of the blade on the poly about 75%. Another session does little
to increase the performance indicating that the edge is in a near optimal
state of alignment, however with a significant amount of wear, and the
degraded sections (1-2 every mm), are giving a false sense of aggression
when the edge is checked with my thumb.
In regards to the exact edge angles used, what is optimal will depend on the
wood being cut as well as the technique used. If your technique is better or
the wood softer, you can go with a more acute angle without suffering a loss
in functional durability. As well consider that this is pretty much the
worst end of the spectrum in regards to steel performance, a higher grade of
heat treatment, as well as a higher grade of steel, should also allow a more
acute edge profile and longer edge life. Note that the edge was sharpened to
a high polish before the chopping and dowel cutting, if a rougher finish was
used then the edge would degrade much quicker as the micro-teeth broke off
under the impacts.
-Cliff
sent them back to him but they turned up last week when I was cleaning up my
closet, yes I am that organized. In any case I figured I would clean them up
before I sent them back to him and while I was at it put decent working
bevels on the blades, as NIB the cutting ability is not anywhere near where
it should be for a decent working knife. It struck me then that this would
serve as a useful way to showcase the difference in performance just
changing the edge bevel can make, and while I knew what to expect with
normal cutting I had not done enough work chopping to make a solid estimate
so I was curious myself about quantification.
I started off with the Marine Raider Bowie. It is a solid knife, one of the
few Ontario blades I have seen without gross manufacturing flaws. This is a
big chopping class knife with a 10" blade of 1095 carbon steel. It is
decently heavy at 600 g with a blade heavy balance (2.25" in front of center
of index finger), so it has quite a solid heft in hand. All of this
indicates that it should chop fairly well. However the primary grind is
sabre-flat and fairly obtuse at about 7 degrees. The edge bevel is even
worse, about 20 degrees near the choil and getting more obtuse towards the
tip where it maxes out at about 25 degrees. From memory I recall actually
thinning this somewhat when I last sharpened it so it was probably a few
degrees higher NIB.
Getting past the numbers how does it actually chop? I spent some time
cutting up small wood (2.5-3.5") with it and the Wildlife Hatchet from
Gransfors Bruks. Right from the start it was obvious that the bowie was not
in the same class as the hatchet, it could not come close to matching the
penetration. The median performance through 30 cuts (364 chops) put the
bowie at a rank of 63 +/- 3, with the Bruks hatchet at 100. Thus the bowie
is far behind and it will readily take a performance loss on large wood and
thus fall further behind because it will not have the penetration necessary
to open up the wood. Some few test runs on larger wood (4"+) verified this,
and on that class of wood the bowie's performance was only at about 40% of
that of the hatchet.
Even worse than the problem with raw penetration, because of the obtuse edge
and primary grind the bowie would glance far too easily. It could not cut at
the angles that you would want for optimal penetration and thus you are
forced to work at higher angles which will significantly effect penetration.
There were also problems with the handle. While I no longer found the grip
abrasive, the end hook is far too sharp and you can't drive off of it
without it generating excessive pressure on your pinky. As well some trials
with a bit of oil on the handle resulted in the blade becoming very unstable
in hand and being hit with a performance loss of about 40 %. The hatchet is
not as strongly effected as its chopping performance doesn't depend as much
on the followup drive after the blade hits the wood.
To clarify method, I was chopping felled wood at about waist height using
full force swings. I experimented with various contact areas along the
length of the blade on the bowie and found that for me the optimum
performance was obtained when I chopped pretty much right in front of the
choil. As I went out on the blade, yes the speed of the knife at the contact
point was increased, but I found that I could not drive as strongly into the
wood because of the leverage disadvantage and that the performance suffered
by about 15% at maximum. Of course if your chopping style is different so
will be the optimal impact point, if you chop depending more on speed then
you will want to move further out on the blade.
Ok, so the knife suffers a large chopping disadvantage, how does it cut? I
tested this by whittling six points on one inch hardwood dowels. The bowie
took 29 +/- 3 cuts to make a point. This is rather poor performance. The
blade does not bite in deeply into the wood and the thick profile forces a
lot of splitting of the chips. The Bruks hatchet easily outperforms the
bowie carving much larger chips, with less effort.
With the cutting done I then proceeded to modify the edge profile. First I
used a one inch belt sander to strip away excess metal from the edge which
was brought down to a 12-13 degree bevel. I also hit the primary grind a
few times, not enough to significantly remove any metal, but just to get a
feel for how much work it would take to put a full height flat grind on the
blade (more than I would want to do). After the shaping I used 15 micron
sandpaper to remove the burr and do a preliminary sharpening. After this
was finished (20 or so strokes per side), the blade would shave, but
roughly. I then cleaned up the bevel with some five Micron SiC, and finished
with some stropping on leather loaded with CrO, the blade would now have
smoothly. Because the leather gave somewhat under the sandpaper, this
introduced a secondary edge bevel of about 15 degrees over the last 0.04" of
the edge.
Back to the hardwood dowel, the bowie showed a huge change in bite, it now
sank much deeper into the wood. The blade removed much larger chips of wood
you could easily pick out the before and after chips. The bowie would now
point the dowels only requiring 14 +/- 1 cuts. This was a performance
increase of about 100%. Note that this result is a little skewed because of
the effect of fatigue, but only I would estimate by a few percent.
With the new edge profile I repeated the chopping. The Marine Raider bowie
showed an obvious improvement in penetration. Just a few chops showed it to
now be in the same class as the small hatchet. A total of 57 cuts (502
chops) produced a median performance rank of 95 +/- 4. This was almost a 50%
increase in chopping performance. Besides the raw increase in penetration, I
noticed that the problem with glancing was significantly reduced and I could
work with the angles just slightly higher than optimal. The obvious question
that came to mind was in regards to durability, however the edge suffered no
problems with the lower angle. After all the chopping the edge was not
visibly damaged. It could even still scrape one or two hairs off my arm on a
pass. Note this was not clear wood being cut either, I would estimate that
one out of every ten or so cuts was through a knot.
In regards to sharpening, the knife could still slice paper after the
chopping, although it had to be within 0.5 inches of the holding point to
start the cut. The edge feels aggressive, but requires about 3.5 cm to cut
through 1/4" poly under a 1000 g load. Checking the edge under magnification
reveals damage on the order of 0.05 - 0.1 mm, or 50-100 micron. The edge in
the damaged area looks to have been impacted/deflected. A quick session of
stropping (10 passes per side) on CrO loaded leather increases the
performance of the blade on the poly about 75%. Another session does little
to increase the performance indicating that the edge is in a near optimal
state of alignment, however with a significant amount of wear, and the
degraded sections (1-2 every mm), are giving a false sense of aggression
when the edge is checked with my thumb.
In regards to the exact edge angles used, what is optimal will depend on the
wood being cut as well as the technique used. If your technique is better or
the wood softer, you can go with a more acute angle without suffering a loss
in functional durability. As well consider that this is pretty much the
worst end of the spectrum in regards to steel performance, a higher grade of
heat treatment, as well as a higher grade of steel, should also allow a more
acute edge profile and longer edge life. Note that the edge was sharpened to
a high polish before the chopping and dowel cutting, if a rougher finish was
used then the edge would degrade much quicker as the micro-teeth broke off
under the impacts.
-Cliff