EdgePro angle for Para 2?

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Oct 5, 2012
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What angle for a hair popping edge on an edge pro. Im using 2k, 6k shapton glass stones, & a roo skin strop with .5 micron diamond spray.
 
Does it still have the factory edge?
 
I usually just use a sharpie pen and match the factory angle.

When I reprofiled my Para2, I used the EP's 15° setting which is not inclusive. I have the Chosera stones and take it 10,000K. It would scare the hair off of your arm.:D

Para2-2.jpg
 
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Spyderco's have a factory edge of 30* inclusive, IIRC. I'm one of those people who reprofiles their edges almost immediately, so I'm not 100% sure.
 
I'd just refine the factory edge. It should be less than 40 degrees inclusive.
 
That is a beautiful edge!!
I usually just use a sharpie pen and match the factory angle.

When I reprofiled my Para2, I used the EP's 15° setting which is not inclusive. I have the Chosera stones and take it 10,000K. It would scare the hair off of your arm.:D

Para2-2.jpg
 
As low as possible until your edge starts to fail and then increase your angle slightly.

(EDIT: Usage experience update below.)

I've had positive experience with the M390 mule at low edge angle and a 30deg microbevel. So when my M390 Para 2 arrived I decided to really thin down behind the edge and put a 30 deg microbevel on. I don't know the actual angle as it was freehand.

IMG_3780.jpg

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Thing is, after lowering the angle it was so deliciously sharp I couldn't resist trying it out before putting the microbevel on.

It simply fell through tomatos and carrots and out of curiosity I did some gentle whittling, expecting to see some edge damage. Surprisingly there was none, so for the time being I have decided to leave it as it is. The knife will have to be a "light-use, in line slicer" as any lateral force will surely knacker the edge. I'm not sure how long it will survive but I hope to limit edge damage to that which will be removed by a micro bevel alone.

Anyone care to share experiences of really low angles in M390?

I'd also love to know what hardness the Para 2 M390 is; seemed easier to remove metal than I expected.

I have been enjoying the low angle (angel :D) and thought I'd post an update.

The knife has been used for day-to-day tasks incuding food-prep, hard-core envelope opening, whittling and such like. I also specifically did some cardboard and christmas tree cutting.

Cardboard demolition:
cardboardcutpileIMG_3861.jpg

Clearly not my forte- though the knife sliced really well (I stuck to going across the corrugations, the more demanding way.) One box had a load of gluey stuff in the seams and was much harder than all the others. Luckily no staples.

Christmas tree demolition:
treeandpara2IMG_3875.jpg

treeandpara2postcutIMG_3878.jpg


Edge after EDC:
prebellyIMG_3833.jpg


Edge after EDC and card:
postcardbelly2IMG_3871.jpg


Edge after EDC and card and tree: Subtle Micro-chipping in a few places.
posttreebelly2burnandcropIMG_3897.jpg


In comparison- Unused factory edge:
factorybellyIMG_3847.jpg

factorybelly1tightcropIMG_3847.jpg


The knife still feels sharp to the pulp of a finger dragged perpendicular to the blade and it will still slice free-edge of printer paper but without that silky, resistance-free glide it had before. It won't shave forearm hair but is cutting well in realistic tasks.

In short, I am impressed with how well this edge has held up to my EDC tasks (and more). Personally, I do not need a knife to rip up plaster board and I wouldn't choose a folder for this task; I doubt this edge would stand that sort of use for long.

I am going to put a 30deg microbevel on as that will make maintenance a doddle. I will keep you posted as to how it holds up in further use.

UPDATE:

As suggested in my original post, I put a 30deg microbevel on the PM2. The knife has been used for lots of cutting since, in particular I carved some ebony and a spoon from spalted hawthorn (I think?):

PM2M390prespoon.jpg



Unused edge after microbevel:

stropped30degmicrobevIMG_4165.jpg


stropped30degmicrobevIMG_4160.jpg


stropped30degmicrobevtipIMG_4157.jpg



After Ebony carving:

30degmicrobevafterebonyIMG_4144.jpg


30degmicrobevtipafterebonyIMG_4147.jpg


After spoon carving:

PM2M390afterspoonmicrobev30IMG_4382.jpg


PM2M390microbev30tipafterspoonIMG_4370.jpg


PM2M390microbev30degtipafterspooncropIMG_4370.jpg


PM2M390microbev30degedgeviewIMG_4373-1.jpg



Clearly there has been some edge damage but the knife still cuts well and feels sharp. This was a serious work out for the knife and for me as I didn't rough out the spoon shape with an axe or saw (apart from splitting the round in half.)

After protracted carving (3+ hours) the handle was feeling pretty uncomfortable but no actual blisters and no cuts. Pretty good for a slimline folder.

I might try a 40 deg microbevel next, just to see how it influences cutting performance.

M390 (in Spyderco's hands) is turning into one of my favourite stainless steels.

About 10 degrees per side. Should be interesting to see how it holds up.

DSCN1602.jpg


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More can be read here:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...2-how-low-can-you-go?highlight=low+angle+para

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/971340-Going-low-on-the-P2-angle-wise-with-pictures
 
Ummmmm.... WOW!! I love the look of that polished edge. Great work for freehand. Very consistant.
 
For S30V steel, I usually profile around the factory angle, but keep it closer to 30 degrees. After I cut and polish the primary bevel, I establish a very small 40 degree edge bevel. For some reason, this seems to be the sweetspot for how I use S30V knives.

TedP
 
I do the same exact thing. Edge Pro at around 30 degrees and then touch up at 40 degrees. Does seem to be a good combination for S30V. Works on my Spydercos and Chris Reeves.
 
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