EdgePro Apex Ceramic Steel Question...

[Gator97]

Hi All,
Still learning my new sharpener

So here's the problem:
I sharpen my blade, to be more exact Nimravis M2. I go through the different grit stones, up to 600 grit. At this point I checked the edge, quite polished & cuts the thin paper by pushing. Now I take the ceramic rod that comes with Apex, which is 800 grit, thus being finer than 600 grit stone right? Use it as directed in video & the manual - hold it vertically, motion - from top to bottom, from knife heel to the tip. First of all it gives new scratches on the blade, then after few strokes, it can't push-cut the same paper

Apparently I am doing something wrong, interesting where?
I thought I was leaving wire edge but after examining the blade carefully & cutting some cardboard I think no, I was not. So, for now I skip that creamic rod step. Any hints?

Also, should I use water on poolishing tapes?

P.S. Anyways, I'm getting the best edge I've ever had

)))

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zvis.com
Have Fun,
Alligator

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I use the ceramic rod and have always found it to improve the edges. How much force are you using? Are there any bumps or any other surface irregularities on the rod?

I have used water on the tapes and as I recall it may have prevented some loading. I could not tell a difference edge wise.

-Cliff

 

[Gator97]

Hi Cliff,
I use minimal force, practically none, as the manual says, just let is slide. After reding your reply I have examined the rod carefully but seels to be fine...

Can it be the wrong angle? But why the scratches anyways

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp:
...
I have used water on the tapes and as I recall it may have prevented some loading. I could not tell a difference edge wise.
-Cliff[/B]

yes, exactly

I couldn't tell the difference on the edge but wet tape lasts longer & gets less loaded.

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zvis.com
Have Fun,
Alligator

 

[dano]

Sounds like you're using the wrong angle on the Ceramic. I think the ceramic rod is more useful to finish up thinner blades; i.e. kitchen knives. I've used it, and coouldn't detect a noticable difference in sharpness on an M-2 bladed Axis lock.

--dan

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Ben sells at least two different grit rods. The 800 grit one I have is very smooth, maybe you got a coarser one by mistake? Concerning angles, either you are going lower that the edge bevel which will do next to nothing (a slight back bevel) or you go higher and put on a light micro bevel. Neither should make the blade blunter. Drop Ben an email, he is very good with customer service.

-Cliff

 

[TANGUS]

I skipped the ceramic rod and went to the steel rod with a few swipes and that definitely improved the edge on mine.-Might try that.

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Lead,follow, or get the hell out of the way!

 

Steeling is tricky:
1) you have to use an angle slightly larger
than the one you used to sharpen, otherwise
the steel will not touch the edge at all.

2) use ABSOLUTELY minimal force (even less than "kissing"), otherwise you will "reburr" the edge.

3) the secret: pull the knife along the edge
and not at an 45°....90° angle as when
sharpening on a "sharpmaker". So you will
take away the slightest remains of any burr still existing.

My Nimravus M-2 cuts "as hell".
Happy sharpening

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D.T. UTZINGER

 

[Gator97]

Hi Tangus,

Originally posted by TANGUS:
I skipped the ceramic rod and went to the steel rod with a few swipes and that definitely improved the edge on mine.-Might try that.

Interesting, I thought about that one, but the manual says steel is far too coarse...?



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zvis.com
Have Fun,
Alligator

 

[Gator97]

Hi Zut,

Originally posted by ZUT&ZUT:
3) the secret: pull the knife along the edge and not at an 45°....90° angle as when
sharpening on a "sharpmaker".

90° means the knife is paralel to the table(the rod is vertical)?



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zvis.com
Have Fun,
Alligator