Edgepro Apex question

[jerrinfla]

I chopped up an old, ruined wicker table with a trailmaster, and when I was finished I discovered that wicker furniture does have nails or staples or something in them, because I had several nicks the size of a thin finishing nail in the edge. x
I used a coarse razpr's edge stone to home the nicks out, which it did in a reasonable anount of time, but I didn't have much of an edge on the knife any more.
So I used an edgepro and got a very nice edge ....at least on the straight part of the blade.
How the heck do you hold the upswept part of the knife on the edgepro in a stable manner? The trailmaster is a fairly long knife, and it doesn't seem to want to stay in place when trying to hit that part of the knife, not to mention that not much of the curved part of the blade extends over the edge of the platform at one time. I'm sure there must be something simple that I'm missing, as I don't think you would have to sharpen just a few millimeters of the edge at a time before repositioning the guide on it.

 

[Nosmo]

When you get to the tip area, you will have to pivot the hand holding the knife so that the tip area is over the end of the Apex table.

Many times the problem is that there is not a stable part of the blade to rest on the table , and you get 'rock'.

I use children's play dough, think that is what its called. I embed the end of the blade in the 'plastic stuff' and this helps allot.

Sometimes its best to sharpen the tip area as a separate job as it requires allot more patience and dexterity
Good luck

 

[maximus otter]

Here’s the method I used to sharpen my CS Trailmaster using my Edge Pro Apex.

Caveat: This method is of my own devising. It is neither used nor endorsed by Edge Pro. Use with care and at your own risk.

I set my Apex at the 24° (blue) setting and sharpen all but the last 2.5” (approximately) of the blade.

I then reset the stone at a mark of my own (see the black Magic Marker line in the image below). This approximates to about 33°.

Using the ~33° setting, I sharpen the last 2.5” of the blade to the tip. This results in a “2-part edge” to the Trailmaster’s blade. (See the tracing in the image below).

To smooth the transition between the 24° and 33° edges, I strop the whole blade using a home-made strop stone. This consists of an Edge Pro blank aluminium plate with a 6” x 1” piece of old belt leather glued to it. The rough side of the leather has been impregnated with Solvol Autosol polishing compound. (See image below).

The result is a Trailmaster which will shave hair from ricasso to tip.

maximus otter