When sharpening the RSK, would you guys suggest trying to hold the knife steady and flat using the little bit of spine it has, or just laying the knife with the large flat-ground part on the deck and adjusting the angle setting accordingly? I've always wondered how to hanle knives like this on the EdgePro since they have little flat/parallel area near the spine.
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EdgePro technique? (Ritter RSK)
- Thread starter Menocu
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2003
- Messages
- 346
While I have no specific experience with that exact blade,but I do the following with blades that have a choice of flats to use.
First I put a layer of black PVC tape on the blade table where the knife will rest.
This grips the blade more than you would think. Then I decide, of the flats available, which one will rock less.
And last, I have some kids Playdow or Plactacene and keep it in little balls.
I use it to take up the gaps under the blade. This works better than described and when changing sides, I move the 'filler balls' as well.
First I put a layer of black PVC tape on the blade table where the knife will rest.
This grips the blade more than you would think. Then I decide, of the flats available, which one will rock less.
And last, I have some kids Playdow or Plactacene and keep it in little balls.
I use it to take up the gaps under the blade. This works better than described and when changing sides, I move the 'filler balls' as well.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2004
- Messages
- 2,270
The key to the Edge Pro (or any sharpening for that matter) is consistency.
To answer the first question, if it's easier to keep the knife steady on the 'flat ground' part, and adjust the angle, then use it. There's no hard or fast rules.
To answer the 2nd question, if you have a knife that has very little of a flat area, grip it so that you can lock you hand and wrist straight. Then as you move the knife across, keep it locked, and it will stay at the same angle. This was one thing I figured out... I used to take a light grip and rely on the knife/table to keep everything steady. Now I take a firmer grip on the knife, (not a death grip, just enough so that the knife can't move around in my hand) and just keep my wrist straight. I found this much simpler, and it even improved my sharpening on 'flat sided' knives.
There's nothing wrong with the 'Playdow' tip... but I think it's easier to concentrate on just holding the knife steady, rather than adding another step to the process.
cbw
To answer the first question, if it's easier to keep the knife steady on the 'flat ground' part, and adjust the angle, then use it. There's no hard or fast rules.
To answer the 2nd question, if you have a knife that has very little of a flat area, grip it so that you can lock you hand and wrist straight. Then as you move the knife across, keep it locked, and it will stay at the same angle. This was one thing I figured out... I used to take a light grip and rely on the knife/table to keep everything steady. Now I take a firmer grip on the knife, (not a death grip, just enough so that the knife can't move around in my hand) and just keep my wrist straight. I found this much simpler, and it even improved my sharpening on 'flat sided' knives.
There's nothing wrong with the 'Playdow' tip... but I think it's easier to concentrate on just holding the knife steady, rather than adding another step to the process.
cbw
woodysone
Gold Member
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2005
- Messages
- 10,189
Shims, Now it all makes sense, A couple of months ago STR posted take you might have a need for shims, It did not make sense until now. Some deep ground hollow edges need some support on the front edge of the ramp to maintain a consistant angle. These can be tape in with blue masking tape and work both right and left side if not made to large. Sometimes it takes a long time to sink in.