Edgepro Usage Question

JohnnyLightOn

JohnnyLightOn

Joined
May 3, 2001
Messages
368
Hi All,

I have a new Edgepro Apex and there are three issues I need some help with. I asked Ben Dale but didn't really understand his answer.

1. Finding the edge: The Edgepro system recommends using a marker and finding the edge angle that the knife already has on it. Then, sharpen using this angle. But I'd like to use my Sharpmaker for touch-ups because it's more convenient (it's never worked well for me, but I thought I'd give it another chance). So should I reprofile my blades to 40 or 30 degrees just so I can use the Sharpmaker? Or is it really worth just keeping the edge it came with from the factory unless I have a specific need for something else? Then the Sharpmaker won't work, right? I do have a leather strop and green compound I can use in place of the Sharpmaker, if that will work just as well for touch-ups.

2. Which grits to use? Let's say I have a dull kitchen knife. If I want to reprofile it to 30 degrees so I can use the Sharpmaker on it, I will use the coursest grit (100) to do this, then go to medium (180) then fine (220). Is it worth going beyond that for a general purpose kitchen knife? If the knife is dull but I don't want to reprofile it, should I start with medium (180)? How about for a general-purpose folder?

3. Removing the burr: Is it correct that just by going to a higher grit and using light strokes that the burr will be removed and I will have a good edge? If this is not correct, how do I remove the burr?

Thanks a lot for any assistance!

Johnny
 
Johnny,

As you get more acquainted with the Edgepro, setting it up becomes very easy.

As for touch ups, just use the finer stones. I believe that the 100 grit stone is for tomahawks and lawnmower blades. I've never seen a knife so bad as to need this grit.

The first time I sharpen a knife (and the bevel is not even, either front to back, or one side wider than the other), I use the 180 to even things out. If this knife is going to beused for wet vegetables or cubing semi-frozen meat for stew, I might just use the 220 or the 320. If the knife is for slicing, I polish with all of the stones and finish off with 4000 series tape. When using the tape, the burr gets polished off. And of course, once the bevel is even, I never use the 180 on that knife again.

I think too much is made of the burr or the wire-edge. I have a horsehair strop, a dab of white resin, a few licks, and the burr is gone. My friend and I just leave the burr on chisel grind knives; the first cuts make the knife seem dull, but after a few passes through cardboard, the blade acts like it was stropped.
 
Greetings,

I have used the 100 grit but sparingly on knives with very uneven bevels to even them up. If I were you, I wouldn't remove any more metal than needed. Let you're sharpmaker have a rest ;)

* For kitchen knives, I use the 180, 220, 330 and stop there.
* For my EDC, I use the 600 as well and polish with tapes.
* As for the burr, I make a few light passes with the last stone I use then strop on smooth leather till it's gone.

Enjoy!!
Brent...
:p

PS ...... Howdy Ichy :cool:
 
JohnnyLightOn :

But I'd like to use my Sharpmaker for touch-ups because it's more convenient
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There is no reason to keep factory bevels, they are usually much too obtuse anyway. Set the Edge Pro under the angle you are going to use on the Sharpmaker and use the coarse stone to put the edge in shape. Now finish sharpening and do touchups on the Sharpmaker.

2. Which grits to use?
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If you are finishing with the Sharpmaker then don't go beyond the coarse stone on the Edge Pro. If you are leaving the final edge with the Edge Pro stones then a more coarse finish will enhance the slicing ability and a high polish will enhance the paring / chopping ability. So different knives will behave better with different finishes.

How about for a general-purpose folder?
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It depends on just how much "utility" work you are doing. If it is just cutting then you can go under 10 degrees per side. What I would recommend is gradually taking the angle down each time you sharpen and stopping when you find that the edge takes damage too easily.

Is it correct that just by going to a higher grit and using light strokes that the burr will be removed and I will have a good edge?
Click to expand...

You don't need to change grits, just increase the angle a little (a degree or two) and make one to two light passes.

-Cliff
 
Johnnylighton....you will learn as you go along. You got some good advice. You have IMHO the best sharpener on the market..I have the Pro model, however, the apex will do anything the pro can, difference is in the costruction.
 
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