Edger. - is this normal?

Robocarullo

Robocarullo

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Aug 20, 2006
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1,148
Hey folks, I’ve been having an issue when using an edger and I am trying to figure out if it’s me or the leather. Multiple times recently when using an edger, I have gotten a sort of ripple in the top layer right next to the cut along the entire edge. I’ve been keeping the edgers sharp with a strop I made. In most cases I’ve been able to wet the leather a bit and then smooth out the ripple with the bone folder, but it’s really annoying. Has anyone else experienced this?

I am using both 8/9 and 6/7 veg shoulder from Weaver.
 
In my experience, that can be caused by a few things. Soft leather, particularly some chrome tanned, does not cut well even with very sharp tools. Also applies to veg tan bellies. It will look like a ragged edge. Tools that are not sharp will definitely cause the problem. Even after sharpening, if all traces of a burr are not removed, it will not cut well. I ran into that myself recently and had to change my buffing approach to resolve it on a particular type of edger. I have also found that square edgers are more prone to this than round ones so I quit using them altogether. Angling them even a little bit can make the ripples you describe. Hope this helps.
Randy
 
Thank you, that is helpful. I will take a look at my tools, it might be time for an upgrade.
 
Every thing Randy said. Also, I’ve found that can happen with just lower quality leather. And it can still be a good leather just lower down the side towards the belly the grain gets softer. But not belly leather yet. When it happens try edging in the opposite direction. That sometimes cleans it up bout as good as anything.
 
Echoing all the above advice, sometimes it’s like planing wood if you go against the wood grain you get chatter and it’s not much fun
Likewise I have seen some leather you can edge one direction and have what you described and if you go the opposite direction it might go smoother also the angle of the tool is key.

When I am working with milled leather it’s intentionally soft/supple for my slip sheaths and I will use a ruler close to the edge and press down to keep the leather from scrunching up and that helps a bit
G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
Echoing all the above advice, sometimes it’s like planing wood if you go against the wood grain you get chatter and it’s not much fun
Likewise I have seen some leather you can edge one direction and have what you described and if you go the opposite direction it might go smoother also the angle of the tool is key.

When I am working with milled leather it’s intentionally soft/supple for my slip sheaths and I will use a ruler close to the edge and press down to keep the leather from scrunching up and that helps a bit
G2
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That's a good one G2, with the ruler! Hadn't heard that before.
 
Was thinking of this thread yesterday. Wasn’t having any trouble with edging but was just doing a lot of it. We made four sets of reins yesterday. Two reins to a set and each set was somewhere between 7’6” and 8’. Then we made about 10 sets of water ties. A water tie is a shorter piece that attaches the rein to the bit. Each water tie is about 10 inches long. Just lots of edging. The reins are doubled and stitched heavy harness leather and lined with a 6 oz lining leather. Used a #2 on top and a #3 on the bottom.This gives a nice feel in the hand. Used the #2 top and bottom on the water ties. Now lots of edge rubbing to do! Lots and thats why we use a power finisher!
 
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