Edges.... yes... edges.

[Diomedes Industries]

I was just rewatching for the 1/2 dozenth time, Paul's video on pocket knife sheaths. He was doing his routine on edges. Here is what I saw:

Sand it flush at 120 on the finisher.

Dampen it with a spray bottle and edge it.

Paste saddlesoap diluted in water

Burnish with old bed sheet (Cast off's from his wife's sewing project.)

Then light touches on the 120 wheel to burnish.

Hand sanding starting at 220 then to 320 then to 400 (Two directions to start - then one direction to finish off each grit.)

Saddlesoap and water again - and rub with same bedsheet.

Dry with a hair dryer to flash dry the sheath and edges.

At this point he has a very smooth edge.

He dyes the edges (Feibings pro dye) and then finishes the sheath (Tan Kote and Neat Lac).


Here is my question.

When I get my edges this smooth BEFORE I dye them - the dye comes off very readily and looks mottled and undied in some areas. As if the leather is firm and burnished enough to not accept dye.

Is there anything I am missing? I do NOT doubt Paul's results - but find I can't reproduce it.

Any feedback and comments are welcome.

Jason

 

[sheathmaker]

Your problem is fairly common. I have the same thing. Fortunately it doesn't happen every time

1.Make sure the dye is really dried. ​Sand lightly with 400 grit.​ This will knock some of the glaze off
2.Buff with paper towel, any light spots will show up here now.
3.Apply second or third coat of dye in the weak area/s
4. Repeat 1,2,3 until you are satisfied

Paul

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Thanks Paul.

I was noting that when you dye and edge - you dye it - rub off the excess and seal.

I dye it and rub on the finish I use (Montana Pitch Blend - or Obenauf's). It is at this point I lose a lot of dye.

The glaze part makes a LOT of sense.

Thanks Paul.

 

[sheathmaker]

Here's one that I had to massage a couple of times to get rid of the weak spots.

This edge is acceptable, not great but okay.

Paul

 

[Gary W. Graley]

I dye mine before I fine sand them down and burnish.

Paul the leather you use, isn't most of it pre-dyed from the tannerie ?

G2

 

[sheathmaker]

Yes, but very little of it gets through and through. Almost all of my split leather has the natural on the flesh side, the color having been split off when I have them go from anything 8/10 and above down to 7/8.

But you are right. when I have to go back and fix an edge it is done with your exact procedure.

Paul

 

[Gary W. Graley]

Thanks Paul, having never bought pre-dyed I wasn't sure how far the dye reached.
G2

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I figured out my issues.

I was using a sanding belt to even up the edges and it moved entirely too fast. This would burn the edges some and cause the dye to be rejected.

I figured it out with a new finisher that I purchased that has variable speed. I am able to run it much slower and it takes material off without burning.

Thanks to everyone.

Jason

 

[Horsewright]

Jason how do you like the Quick Slik?

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Dave,

I have not decided yet. It doesn't seem to do anything that I can't get with saddlesoap and water right now - but - I have not messed with it enough - so I need to give it some time.

Jason

 

[Horsewright]

"The pathway through life is littered with indecisviness". Ya like that I just made that up. It not Yoda or nuthing. Ya decide ya don't like it ya send it to me. That stuff ROCKS!!

 

[Diomedes Industries]

I need to see your method, brother!

Jason