Eeking out those last increases in sharpness...

K

KennyB

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Jan 19, 2010
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So you know when you're sharpening and you get your edge just to that real basic level of sharp you like? For me I just like a good three-finer test and it to shave arm hair.

Well, whatever your preferred level is, it's probably pretty high on the "sharpness scale" and sometimes you probably find yourself wanting to make an edge just a little sharper than that, for whatever reason.

My question is just a quick survey type: Does it seem like it takes longer to get to this next "extra" level of sharp than it took to get to the original level? Like, I'll put it like this...

There's...

Not-So-Sharp
Very Sharp
Extremely Sharp

For me it seems like there's always twice as much time spent going from Very Sharp to Extremely Sharp as it takes to go from Not-So-Sharp to Very Sharp. Seems counterintuitive, like it just starts barely getting any sharper the closer it gets to "maximum". So while I'll take maybe 5 minutes going from Not-So-Sharp to Very Sharp, it might take an extra 30 to get to "Extremely" sharp. Then on top of that I could keep honing for another hour and barely see it get any discernible increase. Putting this into practical terms, while it takes five minutes to get a hair shaving edge, it takes half an hour to get a hair whittling edge--seems like a disproportionate time difference.

I'm wondering if this is because I do all my finishing on just one grit, and it seems like most people like to do a whole grit progression. I wonder if the extra time I take going from Very Sharp to Extremely Sharp on the same grit, could go by faster if I used a finer grit but I don't really think that makes sense--a finer grit would remove less metal so it would take longer wouldn't it? Then on top of this, wouldn't it change the finish of the edge? I like the slightly "toothy" feel of a 600 grit finish.

Anyway, just wondering if others have noticed what I'm talking about or if it's just something exclusive to me.
 
Putting a good finish with the medium grit can require a bit of extra time. In general I find as I go through the progression my time at each step decreases. The initial bevel setting and deburring will take the longest and every step after that I'm removing less metal. If I did a good job at the first step, all the rest go mighty quick. I used to do a lot of work off of a 1200 grit JWS using a muddy stone and leave it at that - took a few. Now if I'm going to stop at a medium finish (for me these days 600 grit wet/dry) I'll strop on plain paper over the Washboard and stop, no noodling/tweeking. If its not sharp enough I go to compound.

Martin
 
At really high levels of sharpness, I find my improvements to be somewhat unpredictable. I normally keep my edges hair whittling sharp. Sometimes I will be doing a routine touch up, and when I check my edge it will instantly pop the hair in half.

For me, getting to that point is actually kind of the opposite from your experience. Setting the bevel with the 400 grit stone takes the most time, but after that I can usually give it just 15-20 passes each side on the strop to get it whittling hair. Taking it sharper than that will usually require the 1k and sometimes 3k stone in between, but both of those steps combined take less time than setting the initial bevel.

To answer your last questions, I do think that using a higher grit would help you achieve the "next level" of sharpness faster. For example, trying to get an edge to whittle hair directly off the stones takes some time and concentration. It is much, much easier (and faster) if I use the strop with 0.5 micron paste.
 
I used to strop but found that the extra time required wasn't worth it

Nowadays I just keep a 8000 grit at work and all it takes is a 15-30 seconds to get screaming sharp, enough to cut wax paper rolled up (which only the sharpest knives can slice, never seen a factory edge cut rolled wax paper).
 
HwangJino said:
I used to strop but found that the extra time required wasn't worth it

Nowadays I just keep a 8000 grit at work and all it takes is a 15-30 seconds to get screaming sharp, enough to cut wax paper rolled up (which only the sharpest knives can slice, never seen a factory edge cut rolled wax paper).
Click to expand...

I use a strop with 6 micron DMT paste for my gyuto and nakiri for quick touch ups. Just a few passes (maybe 6 total) and it brings back a crisp edge with some bite.

I know that you are a sushi chef so maybe that isn't as useful for you though.

Thanks for the new cutting test, lol. I'll have to try that out.
 
Yeah I prefer fast and simple!

My 8000 sits under my station in a rubbermaid, all it takes is a 30 second soak, polish (never more than a minute), clean and ready to use. All taking about 2 or 3 minutes.


Also I try shaving ink off pennysavers! Only after a perfect stroke can I do that haha.
 
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