Hi there BF, this is my first post, and I wanted to introduce myself and throw out a topic. I'll split this post into two parts. Topic first and intro at the end.
Warning: Super long... also not a topic that everyone will be interested in. If you like pulling out your knife, using it, and putting it back in your pocket. the end... that's cool with me.
I've been thinking about the process of pulling out a knife and getting it into my hand ready for action.
I'm not a secret agent or an assassin, but rather an engineer nerding out on efficiency of movement. To me, using a knife to cut a string or open an box containing another knife is an enjoyable part of my day. I'm reminded of a boxing axiom I've read: when dodging a punch, you want the punch to just barely miss you. You don't want to dodge too far out of the way. My understanding is that the further away you dodge, the more out of balance/position you are and the longer it takes you to counter.
But this isn't about boxing, it's about pulling out a knife to break down that cereal box for recycling
So here's how I pull out my EDC 551-1 Grip with my first attempt at photos:
https://imgur.com/a/fIzSB9V
1. I pull out my knife by placing my ring and pinky fingers on a 1" paracord fob with knot and wrapping my other three fingers along the back half of the knife as it comes out.
2. Pinching the back half of the knife with my thumb, index and middle fingers, I flick it open with a soft wrist flick.
3. After the knife is locked in place, I shift my fingers up an inch to get into a standard grip.
Simple enough... here's my analysis:
1. fob/lanyard positioning:
I don't like typical lanyard positions on knives.
- When the fob is on the center line of the knife, it can catch on the blade, preventing it from opening, or cutting the lanyard when closing the knife.
- The fob can work it's way into the pocket, thus not being where you expect it to be when trying to pull your knife out.
My solution was to put the lanyard on the pocket clip itself (deep carry in this case).
- The fob is always outside of my pocket exactly where I expect it to be.
- It stays out of the blade path because it's not on the center line.
- the 1" length of paracord and knot at the end allow me to grasp it with my ring and pinky fingers and pull the knife out without having to reach my hand into my pocket.
2. opening of Axis lock
I've noticed that compared to other types of locks, axis locks have a very weak detent. I therefore have 3 options for opening the knife:
- thumb stud
- pulling back on axis lock
- wrist flick (easy due to the weak detent. Very gentle motion, less impact force than using the thumb stud)
Using the thumb stud and pulling on the axis lock both require me to have a full grip on the knife handle. Therefore I have to pull out the knife, shift my hands into position, and then open the knife.
Because I pull out my knife with two fingers on the fob, my thumb and index/ring fingers end up holding the butt end of the knife. This is the perfect position for a wrist flick.
I'm not talking about taking a baseball swing where you try to break the stop pin. Rather, its a quick flick/impulse, an down/up motion that is less than an inch in either direction.
Take out your folder and give this a try. Pinch the folder with your hands close to the pivot and try to flick the knife open by moving it down and up quickly (it doesn't work if you go up and then down). Now pinch your fingers towards the butt end of the knife and do the same thing. It should be easier with your fingers further back because it's easier to impart greater torque at the pivot. Depends greatly on the detent, obviously.
So by pulling the knife out, using a wrist flick, then shifting my hands up with the blade out, I save a step compared to pulling the knife out, shifting my hands up, and flicking the knife out with the thumb stud, and then getting my hand back into position.
To me, thinking about this stuff is fun. I also carry a GEC boys knife, so it's not like I really need to or care about opening a knife quickly. I see it as no different than nerding out on blade steel or MRBS or whatever else people are interested in. If anyone wants to share their thoughts on these types of things, I'd be happy to hear it!
P.S. I'm aware of the Emerson Wave, like I said I'm not into it for self defense reasons, I just like thinking about making things more efficient.
************************************
Ok now here's my intro:
I've been lurking on this forum for about a year now.
Started with a PM2, S30V, black/black. It's my wife's knife now. She likes the stabby looks of it.
Next was a ESSE 3.
Then my current EDC Benchmade 551-1. It started as a 550-1, but I messed up the tip on a Ken Onion Worksharp so decided to try the drop point. Got the blade swapped from Benchmade.
Next was a GEC 15 boys knife, 153113EO. Fun blade, got a nice patina going.
I want to get a large Sebenza 21 drop point, hopefully 2/27/18, which is my son's birthday. I don't know if I can hold out that long, since I really want one now
If you've read this far, thanks for taking the time to read this.
Pendexter
Warning: Super long... also not a topic that everyone will be interested in. If you like pulling out your knife, using it, and putting it back in your pocket. the end... that's cool with me.
I've been thinking about the process of pulling out a knife and getting it into my hand ready for action.
I'm not a secret agent or an assassin, but rather an engineer nerding out on efficiency of movement. To me, using a knife to cut a string or open an box containing another knife is an enjoyable part of my day. I'm reminded of a boxing axiom I've read: when dodging a punch, you want the punch to just barely miss you. You don't want to dodge too far out of the way. My understanding is that the further away you dodge, the more out of balance/position you are and the longer it takes you to counter.
But this isn't about boxing, it's about pulling out a knife to break down that cereal box for recycling
So here's how I pull out my EDC 551-1 Grip with my first attempt at photos:
https://imgur.com/a/fIzSB9V
1. I pull out my knife by placing my ring and pinky fingers on a 1" paracord fob with knot and wrapping my other three fingers along the back half of the knife as it comes out.
2. Pinching the back half of the knife with my thumb, index and middle fingers, I flick it open with a soft wrist flick.
3. After the knife is locked in place, I shift my fingers up an inch to get into a standard grip.
Simple enough... here's my analysis:
1. fob/lanyard positioning:
I don't like typical lanyard positions on knives.
- When the fob is on the center line of the knife, it can catch on the blade, preventing it from opening, or cutting the lanyard when closing the knife.
- The fob can work it's way into the pocket, thus not being where you expect it to be when trying to pull your knife out.
My solution was to put the lanyard on the pocket clip itself (deep carry in this case).
- The fob is always outside of my pocket exactly where I expect it to be.
- It stays out of the blade path because it's not on the center line.
- the 1" length of paracord and knot at the end allow me to grasp it with my ring and pinky fingers and pull the knife out without having to reach my hand into my pocket.
2. opening of Axis lock
I've noticed that compared to other types of locks, axis locks have a very weak detent. I therefore have 3 options for opening the knife:
- thumb stud
- pulling back on axis lock
- wrist flick (easy due to the weak detent. Very gentle motion, less impact force than using the thumb stud)
Using the thumb stud and pulling on the axis lock both require me to have a full grip on the knife handle. Therefore I have to pull out the knife, shift my hands into position, and then open the knife.
Because I pull out my knife with two fingers on the fob, my thumb and index/ring fingers end up holding the butt end of the knife. This is the perfect position for a wrist flick.
I'm not talking about taking a baseball swing where you try to break the stop pin. Rather, its a quick flick/impulse, an down/up motion that is less than an inch in either direction.
Take out your folder and give this a try. Pinch the folder with your hands close to the pivot and try to flick the knife open by moving it down and up quickly (it doesn't work if you go up and then down). Now pinch your fingers towards the butt end of the knife and do the same thing. It should be easier with your fingers further back because it's easier to impart greater torque at the pivot. Depends greatly on the detent, obviously.
So by pulling the knife out, using a wrist flick, then shifting my hands up with the blade out, I save a step compared to pulling the knife out, shifting my hands up, and flicking the knife out with the thumb stud, and then getting my hand back into position.
To me, thinking about this stuff is fun. I also carry a GEC boys knife, so it's not like I really need to or care about opening a knife quickly. I see it as no different than nerding out on blade steel or MRBS or whatever else people are interested in. If anyone wants to share their thoughts on these types of things, I'd be happy to hear it!
P.S. I'm aware of the Emerson Wave, like I said I'm not into it for self defense reasons, I just like thinking about making things more efficient.
************************************
Ok now here's my intro:
I've been lurking on this forum for about a year now.
Started with a PM2, S30V, black/black. It's my wife's knife now. She likes the stabby looks of it.
Next was a ESSE 3.
Then my current EDC Benchmade 551-1. It started as a 550-1, but I messed up the tip on a Ken Onion Worksharp so decided to try the drop point. Got the blade swapped from Benchmade.
Next was a GEC 15 boys knife, 153113EO. Fun blade, got a nice patina going.
I want to get a large Sebenza 21 drop point, hopefully 2/27/18, which is my son's birthday. I don't know if I can hold out that long, since I really want one now
If you've read this far, thanks for taking the time to read this.
Pendexter
