@ razor-edge
Replied earlier this morning from my phone via Tapatalk, but appears some issue (hopefully will not double post ...)
EDIT: I am assuming that you know you need to get above 20v to get beyond bronze ... (some power supplies are voltage limited - like 0-18v, etc.).
I do not use Ti wire for the "hanger wire" (connection between power supply & working piece) when electro-anodizing titanium. I use stainless wire, therefore can not speak specifically to to your question related to using plain steel types of wire; but would assume they would work provided they are "clean". Consider that when wire/metal is exposed to air, it begins to oxidize reducing it's ability to pass electricity, heat, etc. (proportionally the resistance increases as it oxidizes). Your hanger wire may be coated (lacquer, coating, oxidation, etc.) with something that is reducing its capability to pass voltage to/thru work-piece. Same goes for electrical connection to anode, and the anode itself. Also, consider that the "wire" coming out of the power supply is probably copper-stranded (i.e. not Titanium), and is merely being used to pass the electrical current. Obviously, if the titanium you are working with is oxidized the effective results of your procedure will vary accordingly.
Also, are you monitoring the voltage through the system (not the voltage output of the supply, but the line voltage through the system). There may be line voltage loss due to various types of resistance based on how/what you are using for connections. I record the voltage thru the piece (vs. voltage out of power supply), as a voltage/color reference. Then again, I don't have some fancy high-zoot ano-power-box (I use a simple variac, home-made quad-diode-rectifier AC/DC converter, and monitor the voltage with a simple multi-meter), but can get very nice low-voltage bronzes, mid-voltage reds, and high voltage light greens in a repeatable manner. I particularly like the light ice blues that occur between blue & gold-bronze voltages ;-)
You may want to experiment with reversing the polarity (connections to anode & work piece). Sometimes they can get mixed up with regard to the method you are using (some procedures require positive to work-piece, some require positive to anode).
The main goal is to pass voltage and current through the work-piece, in a controlled environment (the electrolyte) where the surface of the titanium is coaxed into building a controlled depth layer of hardened crystals to protect the surface of the metal from uncontrolled oxidation, scratching, etc. How thick or deep the crystalline layer results various reflectivity of light (the Ti does not actually change color, the crystalline structure just changes what light temperatures are effectively reflected).
I actually use stainless anode and also suspension wire for work piece. The main goal is to pass a controlled voltage and current through the work-piece, in a controlled environment where the surface of the Titanium is coaxed into building a controlled depth layer of hardened crystals to protect the surface of the metal from uncontrolled oxidation, scratching, etc. How thick or deep the crystalline layer results various reflectivity of light (the Ti does not actually change color, the variable thickness of resultant crystalline oxide structure just changes what light temperatures are effectively reflected - i.e. the color of the reflected light).
The reason I choose to use stainless is because I "believed" it oxidizes less (compared to other types of metal), does not appear to form crystals like Ti wire does during the ano process, and in general is easier to keep clean. I know there's all kinds of videos and blogs out there talking about the need to use various other metals, and that anodes must be of Titanium or other unobtanium composites to allow molecular trans-form-deposition through the electrolyte solution, etc., etc. It is my understanding that the crystalline structure is deposited as simple oxide crystallization on the surface of the Ti (everyone's mileage varies, and I continue to learn everyday ..., but always search for the simple solutions first).
I hope not to sound as though I am talking down (as I do not know your level of experience), or that my understanding isthe right/proper or only way, but merely to share my "understanding" of what works for me currently vs a lot of what I have read and watched (by those that only want "answers" without understanding & consideration of the variables).
This may or may not have directly answered your questions, but with all the variables and little info I have related to the specifics of your equipment hopefully some answers you can apply to your procedures that will help.
Regards,
Christopher
