Electro chem etch tweek

Fred.Rowe

Fred.Rowe

Joined
May 2, 2004
Messages
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I've used the E.C.E. system to mark my blades for the last six years with varried results. I found you you can greatly improve the results by: after the blade has been cleaned and the stencil taped flat in place add a few drops of denatured alcahol onto the stencil. Cohesion will draw the stencil to the blade surface and will result in a cleaner and clearer etch.

Good luck Fred
 
Thanks! Denatured alcohol? Is that the same as rubbing alcohol. I get confused on that.:confused:
 
Nope. Rubbing alcohol is sold at the drug store to disinfect wounds. Denatured alcohol is found near the acetone, mineral spirits, and other paint thinners at the hardware store.
 
Sounds good
Ihave the small unit not the plus. Do you apply the etch pad while the acohol is still wet?
I guess my results could be called varied. It seems that there is a very fine line between having to much solution on the pad and not enough.
I'll try it
Take Care
TJ
 
Mike,
I think any alcahol will work. The fact that the alcahol evaporates through the stencil lettering so quickly it doesn't interfere with the etching process. You will want to watch the alc. around the tape that holds the stencil it will lossen it in a hurry.
Fred
 
TJ,
I also have the basic unit. I apply the pad asap. If there seems to be excess alc. on the stencil surface blot with a lint free cloth. You are correct about the fine line on the amount of etch solution. Not to much and not to little.
Let me know how this works for you.
Fred
 
I may be wrong here, all corrections gratefully received...

Denatured alcohol is ethanol denatured with a small amount of methanol. In the UK, denatured alcohol is sold as methylated spirits and has a purple dye added. This serves to make the meths look like Parfait Amour and therefore discourages people from drinking it (as *no-one* drinks that stuff!).

Rubbing alcohol is (usually) mostly isopropanol/isopropyl alcohol. AIUI, not all of them are which further confuses things.

Peter
 
Good tip, Fred. I don't have any problems with my etch, but I'll use alcohol on the next.

It is kind of worrying when the stiff green stencils raise up, but if it's taped all the way around so that it can't move, it has never caused a problem for me.

I've used my personalizer plus for many years.

I've found that these things always work for me:

First, tape the blade to a piece of brass sheet so it can't move. Apply the wire clip electrode to the brass plate, not the blade.

1. Tape all around the stencil with black electrician's tape. It won't pull the resist off the stencil when you remove it.

2. Wrap the pad around the end of the applicator and pull it tight with a rubber band.

3. Dampen the pad with electrolyte, then remove all the liquid with a paper towel.

4. Set the unit on "etch".

5. Set the dial at 2.5. This setting has always worked great fo me on any blade.

6. Hold the pad against the stencil for a few seconds, lift and see if the mark is completely black under the stencil. If not, repeat until the whole mark shows black.

7. Move the switch to "mark" and press for a second or so, lift away, repeat 4 or 5 times.

Yes, the main thing is not to use too much electrolyte, use the black tape, and don't use more than the 2.5 current setting on the dial. Don't fry the stencil and create too much heat.

Never clean the stencil with the cleaner. It will shorten the life of the stencil dramatically. Clean the blade with cleaner, clean the stencil with soap and water.

This always works great for me.
 
Don,
All the techniques you speak of should be in the owners manual, so people who purchase this unit would have a faster learning curve. Get back with me when you've tried the alcohol.
Fredetch, but I'll use alcohol on the next.

It is kind of worrying when the stiff green stencils raise up, but if it's taped all the way around so that it can't move, it has never caused a problem for me.

I've used my personalizer plus for many years.

I've found that these things always work for me:

First, tape the blade to a piece of brass sheet so it can't move. Apply the wire clip electrode to the brass plate, not the blade.

1. Tape all around the stencil with black electrician's tape. It won't pull the resist off the stencil when you remove it.

2. Wrap the pad around the end of the applicator and pull it tight with a rubber band.

3. Dampen the pad with electrolyte, then remove all the liquid with a paper towel.

4. Set the unit on "etch".

5. Set the dial at 2.5. This setting has always worked great fo me on any blade.

6. Hold the pad against the stencil for a few seconds, lift and see if the mark is completely black under the stencil. If not, repeat until the whole mark shows black.

7. Move the switch to "mark" and press for a second or so, lift away, repeat 4 or 5 times.

Yes, the main thing is not to use too much electrolyte, use the black tape, and don't use more than the 2.5 current setting on the dial. Don't fry the stencil and create too much heat.

Never clean the stencil with the cleaner. It will shorten the life of the stencil dramatically. Clean the blade with cleaner, clean the stencil with soap and water.

This always works great for me.[/QUOTE]
 
Thanks, Fred.

Fortunately, Electro-Chem Etch makes a very good etcher, but their communication skills aren't too good.

Several years ago, when I bought mine, I was having trouble and I called them on the phone and asked to speak to the manager. He listened to my troubles, and then advised me to use the 2.5 setting. No other comment.

Of course, I did that, but the other things I learned the hard way, with the exception of using the electrician's tape and not cleaning the stencil with the cleaner. I leaned those two important things from our friend, Don Cowles. His tips made my stencils last much longer.
 
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