Electro etching, make a unit or buy one for $250?

R

Ross99

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May 31, 2011
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What determines the depth of the etch, my cheap plug in transformer unit does not etch deeply enough, regardless of how long I keep dabbing the blade. Are the less expensive( around $250) electro etchers available online "better" than simple plug in transformers? For now I am looking for a AC transformer to darken the etch, I'll just switch transformers as necessary.

Thanks,

Ross
 
DC removes the steel, AC puts on a dark oxide. The ability to adjust the voltage from 1 to 24 volts, plus enough current to do the work is what separates the hobby units powered by an old plug in transformer from the Pro units that cost $150-250. The ability to switch from DC to AC at a flip of the switch is also a good feature. You get what you pay for.
 
Thanks for the reply bladsmth. Should I be looking for a particular make and model(around $250), or are they basically the same within a given price range?
 
I built my own roughly 8 years ago based on (I think) plans that were posted on Chris Crawford's website. Got everything from Radio Shack (except for the touch pad, which I made from a piece of Oak wood and a piece of brass).

If you can read a schematic and do basic soldering, you can save lots of bucks. Back then, I had less than $75.00 in mine. I have etched between 350 and 400 blades and it has yet to fail me.

Good luck.......... Robert
 
I have mine set up for 12 volts. I like a deep etch, so I usually etch (on DC) about 3-4 times. On each etch cycle, I will give it a count of 5, then let it take a breath, then etch again. After 3-4 cycles, I switch to AC, and do this a couple of times.

Since I etch fairly deep, all the etching is done prior to the final finish on the blade.

Quality stencils are a key. I don't want to be accused of deal spotting, but I bought my stencils from IMG Electromark several years ago, and have never looked back.

Another thing......... clean your stencils between etching each knife. I squirt several shots of Windex through both sides, then follow with squirting water to clean. Then, I place between a folded piece of paper towel until next time.

Robert
 
Back when I bought my personalizer plus they were under $200---- 12? years ago.
Literally hundreds of blades, zero problems. How deep?-You don't want to have to
grind one out.
Ken.
 
Ken, it's good to know that your Personalizer has worked well for you all these years. Sounds like the etch is deep enough to look really good. Will Roberts home made system etch as deeply as a Personalizer Plus?
 
I second a Personalizer Plus. Haven't used mine as much as I would like, but it's been easy to use and I like the variable power. I briefly thought about making my own. But between running down the parts and wiring it all up (I hate electrical), I decided this time I'd pony up the bucks for a pro unit.
 
Anyone use a Atlas Mini Etcher? It goes for around $100. I think it will come down to one of these two units(Personalizer Plus). I'm still considering building a etcher, but the end result must produce a deep etch or it's not worth the trouble.
 
The Bob Warner etcher on Chris Crawfords site or the Personalizer Plus are both good.Comes down to this.If you like building things,build one.If not then buy one.I like to make knives, not make the things to make knives:o
Stan
 
If you use a good electrolyte and a quality stencil, you'll get good results from either etcher. I'm not sure how often you'll use 1v or 24v to etch with, which is why I made the Atlas etcher only 12v. Both the Atlas and others use the same basic layout and you'll get similar results. The biggest complaint I've had about the Atlas is that it doesn't darken as well, which is a result of the q-tips instead of pad. The felt pads work deeper. You can buy/make a pad and you'll get the same results.

A trick taught to me for cleaning the stencils, reverse the leads and give a 15 second etch on scrap material. It will move electricty the opposite direction and do a nice job cleaning.

I enjoy making things to make knives.
 
Hey zaph1, thanks for the info. I still haven't made up my mind, but at least I am getting good information and a general idea of what I want the etcher to do. I don't mind paying $250 for a good unit, but I don't want to spend more than I need to(your $105 etcher looks really good).
 
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Well I went with a DC/AC benchtop power supply. I then ordered the carbon block hand pad from USAknifemakers, along with the proper solutions.

I am getting decent results with my cheap etcher, but would like a deeper, darker mark.

Thanks for the replies.

Ross
 
Well I went with a DC/AC benchtop power supply. I then ordered the carbon block hand pad from USAknifemakers, along with the proper solutions.

I am getting decent results with my cheap etcher, but would like a deeper, darker mark.

Thanks for the replies.

Ross
 
zaph1 said:
If you use a good electrolyte and a quality stencil, you'll get good results from either etcher. I'm not sure how often you'll use 1v or 24v to etch with, which is why I made the Atlas etcher only 12v. Both the Atlas and others use the same basic layout and you'll get similar results. The biggest complaint I've had about the Atlas is that it doesn't darken as well, which is a result of the q-tips instead of pad. The felt pads work deeper. You can buy/make a pad and you'll get the same results.

A trick taught to me for cleaning the stencils, reverse the leads and give a 15 second etch on scrap material. It will move electricty the opposite direction and do a nice job cleaning.

I enjoy making things to make knives.
Click to expand...

I have one of your Atlas etchers. It works well but I think I want to start using a pad. Do you have any tips on how to make a pad for it?
 
I have very good results with a modified 12v power supply. I think it is 2 amps but I should check that to be sure. I built in a ac/dc switch en I use a solution of vinegar and salt.
 
Here is a pad that Phillip made for this marking methods machine he bought off ebay..Its just wood block with a hole drilled thru..A brass rod runs thru the length then is attached to a brass plate on the bottom..(convex hole thru the plate then the rod is peened over) The actual pad is one of the cheap cotton pads from walmart..We use electrolyte from USAknifemaker and stencils from ernie..works great..
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