Electronic Bore Cleaners?

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Oct 25, 2004
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I've seen these for sale before. Being a cheapskate, I figured that I'd build one instead.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/reviews/copperout/index.asp

I made mine a little differently. I salvaged a disused 3V power supply, snipped the wires, and soldered alligator clips on the ends. For a rod, I used a 3/16" mild steel rod from Home Depot. I tried the bevelled washers and found them useless. Instead, I use an O-ring (3/16" I.D.) to keep the rod from bumping the barrel at the muzzle. For the breech end, I use a spent cartridge case with a couple of turns of Teflon tape around the outside.

For the cleaning solution, I use 1 part household ammonia, 1 part vinegar, 2-3 parts water.

It seems to work. Testing is still in progress, but several electronic cleanings were done on a badly beaten 91/30 as part of an accurizing project. I haven't worked up the nerve to try this on anything but a pitted milsurp yet. I keep the voltage at 3VDC and only run for 30 minutes or so at a time. Cleaning afterwards consists of plenty of Hoppes #9 to remove powder fouling and a liberal dose of Ballistol at the end to prevent rusting.

Anyone used an electronic bore cleaner, homebrew or otherwise? And any knowledgeable people care to comment on just what's going on here?
 
I'm not knowledgeable but it seems like a great idea in theory... let us know what happens.

I'd like a electrically charged de-rusting tank...


Mike
 
I'm guessing it's sort of like electroplating, except that you're plating your steel rod. I'd think it'd be extremely important what gets the positive and what gets the negative charge.
 
I built one, using a 6V lantern battery, a spare Swede M96 cleaning rod with 1/2" long sections of heat-shrink tubing every 6" or so, and another piece of heat shrink at the threaded end in the chanber, just in case. For a breech plug, I bought an assortment of small rubber stoppers at the hardware store and find one that fits the chamber, forcing the bolt closed on it. I fashion a "funnel" of sorts from duct tape around the muzzle end of the barrel to make it easy to pour in the solution and to catch the foam generated by the electrolysis. The negative jumper wire clips onto the slotted end of the cleaning rod, and the positive jumper alligator fastens to the rear sight. I shut off the unit after 15-20 mins or when the foaming slows down or stops, then remove the cleaning rod and wipe off the accumulation of black gunk. Once the cleaned cleaning rod is reinserted, the solution is topped off and the battery reconnected. The foaming starts immediately and is again vigorous. Lather, rinse, repeat. I follow with standard cleaning with Hoppes Benchrest, followed by Ballistol, followed by dry patches, the a patch wetted with Corrosion-X. GTG. For the electrocleaner solution, I use 1:1 ammonia and tap water, and forget about the vinegar. I initially used the vinegar also, thinking the acetate compound was necessary, but trials with 1:1 ammonia and water showed indistinguishable results as compared to the ammonia/vinegar acetate compound.

It's a handy little rig, and it REALLY cleans a filthy, copper-fouled bore.

Noah
 
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