Electroplating M4-Should I?

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wongKI

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Jul 9, 2009
Messages
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So today was a school lesson on electrolysis and electroplating, which got me wondering about whether I could electroplate my M4 Gayle Bradley. It's had some corrosion issues-I can't get my hands on any good oil, and the pivot keeps rusting up. I understand that HSS needs frequent maintenance, but brushing out the pivot just seems a little extreme sometimes :)

So, being the busybody I am, I was wondering if I could electroplate my blade to look nicer and be more corrosion resistant. The technique outlined by my teacher was as such-

Plate copper to steel (as a binder), then nickel (to provide corrosion resistance), then chromium, which is shiny. I'm able to get my hands on all of these-just wondering if it'll work as well as it sounds?
 
Wouldnt the plate metal increase the thickness of the blade pivot ever so slightly so that it was 2 tight?
 
wongKI said:
So today was a school lesson on electrolysis and electroplating, which got me wondering about whether I could electroplate my M4 Gayle Bradley. It's had some corrosion issues-I can't get my hands on any good oil, and the pivot keeps rusting up. I understand that HSS needs frequent maintenance, but brushing out the pivot just seems a little extreme sometimes :)

So, being the busybody I am, I was wondering if I could electroplate my blade to look nicer and be more corrosion resistant. The technique outlined by my teacher was as such-

Plate copper to steel (as a binder), then nickel (to provide corrosion resistance), then chromium, which is shiny. I'm able to get my hands on all of these-just wondering if it'll work as well as it sounds?
Click to expand...
test it on a crap blade first.
nc527 said:
Wouldnt the plate metal increase the thickness of the blade pivot ever so slightly so that it was 2 tight?
Click to expand...

just loosen the pivot then..
 
Both chrome and nickel will plate on steel without a copper underplate.
With proper application, either will protect your blade-except at the cutting edge.
 
Sounds like more trouble than its worth, you shouldn't be having that much of a rust issue. Even when trying to force a patina M4 hardly takes to that, so unless your completely neglecting your knife or you live right next to the ocean I can't understand why your knife would keep rusting.

Good oil? you don't have any cooking oil or oil from a car?




FYI, I have never oiled my M4 mule team and only had one rust spot the size of a pin head and that was from not cleaning it after use.
 
The most that's happened to my Gayle Bradley is some slight darkening(patina?) on the spine behind the jimping, from finger oil. The rest of the blade I just lightly wipe with mineral oil. With that said, I'm also interested in the possibility of electroplating M4.
 
It can certainly be done. Blades have been plated for years.
 
Perhaps I exaggerated the problem a little-it's not THAT bad, just getting rust spots under the pivot. Somehow oiling it didn't work :( Whenever that happens I take an old toothbrush to the pivot.

I'll try forcing a patina first. That should look nice AND take care of the rust problem too :)

Thanks everyone!
 
I don't know of any product that works better than break free for rust protection. It may not be a miracle lube, but it works well enough for our military and Smith and Wesson. It's not expensive and comes in aerosol or non. I use it on my M4, and I've had no issues. I would not shy away from a "non food grade" protectant for any of my knives.
 
Consider using this cleaner, lubricant, protectant (aka "CLP") >>>

weapon.jpg


It's a favorite among the black rifle folks... ;) Break free (LP) is also good stuff and another favorite...
 
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