Elk antler warping

chickentrax

chickentrax

Joined
Aug 5, 2005
Messages
5,527
Hello!

I am in the process of re-scaling a folder with Elk antler. I've cut & fit the scales, and rough sanded to shape -



This is a pretty flat knife, and the scales are fairly thin - ~ 5/32". I wanted the flat look, but I think I got too much of the pulp of the antler exposed.

I wet sanded the scales with 320, 400, and 600, and when I checked the scales the next day, one scale had warped -



One knifemaker suggested I wet the scale and clamp it overnight and let it dry. I did this, and as soon as it got wet, it flattened right out. But after drying, it warped again.

Is there a way to "stabilize" this scale??? Has all this wetting & drying ruined this piece???

Thank you for your time! ;)
 
I would saturate them with super glue,and clamp them or put a weight on them to keep flat until glue sets. Ive done this with moose horn and it works good.
 
RLS said:
I would saturate them with super glue....
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply, Ray! Does superglue stay "wet" long enough to allow this??? I could clamp it with two "C" clamps between two 2x4's, with wax paper to keep it from sticking to the 2x4's, but that would take some seconds to do...

Do I have that much time before the superglue sets??? :confused:

Someone in another Forum suggested soaking it with mineral oil [wood preservative type, not the laxative!] to keep it from shrinking/warping...
 
Hello Chickentrax

If you are going to clamp the scales between two 2X4's, use plastic wrap instead of wax paper. Wax paper is smetimes a little porous and I have had it stick. Also, some of the wax may come off and give you trouble later. Another way is to put a piece of packing tape on the 2X4's to give them a non-stick surface. I find it easier to handle. I have done that to fix wood that has chipped when sawing.

The superglue does not set right away when it is "out in the open". Sometimes, it takes 5-10 minutes.

Check the compatibility of your superglue with the finish that you are intending to apply. I have had superglue (Satellite City Hot Stuff with the red label - thin like water) that turned yellow when I applied polyurethane over it. Bummer!

Good luck.

Phil
 
Just remember lack of air is what makes super glue set, so you do have a little time. I have two pieces of flat stock with tephlon glued to them that I use.
 
i don't know what the other posters are seeing in the top photo. but with that much pith showing through the slabs, i would toss them and start over. chalk it up to a learning experience.
 
Shakudo said:
i don't know what the other posters are seeing in the top photo. but with that much pith showing through the slabs, i would toss them and start over. chalk it up to a learning experience.
Click to expand...

Good point. This was/is my first stag; and trying to put round scales on a flat knife still has me confused. I suppose I should have left the middle of the scale rounded and just flattened the ends, to meet the bolsters. But I like the look of smooth flat stag. I had seen a Sambar stag Buck 110 that looked nice...

How do they do it??? :confused:
 
RLS - super glue (cyanoacrylate) is triggered by hydroxyl ions from water.If applied in the absence of air it will not catalyze (unless there is water there).The small amount of moisture on and in most things is what makes it set up.Skin is the best example of the perfect material to super glue - porous and full of moisture.To assure a good polymerization of cyanoacrylate,wipe surfaces with a damp cloth.They don't need to be wet,just have some surface moisture.The accelerator spray is another good way to assure complete curring.In the case of these elk scales there is already enough moisture present.One caution to all you guys who rub super glue on with your fingertips - the reaction is exothermic.If you are rubbing on a drop,no problem.If you are trying to stabilize a big piece with a whole tube of the $1 store stuff,you can get a dandy burn.
 
Put the scales in a sandwich type plastic bag, flood them with a bunch of superglue, then clamp a couple of boards on them.
You might want to hinge the boards on edge with some duct tape, so you will not have to fiddle around lining them up...
They'll need some sanding afterward, but they will be warp-free...
 
The big problem with elk is the lack of bone density. The best part of the elk antler is near the crown. When I do elk scales on my fixed blades, I cut the scales to size a sand them flat on the belt sander. I've found with rehandling 110's is that epoxy does not hold very well to brass. I'd ask Buck what epoxy they use.
Scott
 
To get the real thin slabs you want from elk, you've got to find a piece that is big enough to cut over size and then, like Scott said, use the belt sander to get rid of the inner core. This will leave the hard outer horn. Look for the large beam close to the crown. You really want a section that has minimal radius. Sometimes the area at a tine fork may be flat enough.
Rick
 
Razorback - Knives said:
I'd ask Buck what epoxy they use...
Click to expand...

Joe Houser from Buck said they use "LocTite"...and no, he didn't say *which* LocTite... :(

Thanks for all the replies! :D :thumbup:
 
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