- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
Finally after working on these little by little I got all three knocked out. Figured I'd save some time and just snap a shot of all three and put em in a single thread instead of making three new posts.
This CQC14 is like the 15th one of these I have converted into a frame lock. Boring by now. Its been done for a few waiting on these others. All three of these belong to the same guy. I already posted a quick scan of that one but just never got around to the digitals.
The M-Waves are a first for me to convert. Seen here are a black satin finished blade and a green newer model with the black blade. Funny thing. The new green one uses a different size phillips head screw than the older black model. (smaller phillips pattern on the screw heads) Also, the hole pattern from one model to the other is just off enough that you could not swap the black frame lock side I did and put it on the green one. None of the holes line up exactly the same. They are close but just off enough that you end up with one or two screws that bind from one model year to the next apparently. Its odd. I also note the factory liner and lock on the green one are thinner than the black one.
Anyway, these M-Waves are some tough ones to do. For some reason I especially had a bit of trouble with the green one which fought me the whole way from start to finish. I stubbornly won out though.
Its flawless now. The other two went together like a dream. Only thing different about all these is the new way I'm doing my stop pins now where I pull out that 'rattle' and replace it with a screwed down pin in the way of a threaded barrel of hardened stainless. These are set up using a phillips flat head screw in a black finish on one side and a Torx on the other. I snagged these 4-40 screws from Micro Fasteners. I put the matching flat head phillips on the visible side and a button head satin screw for a T-7 driver hiding under the non lock side scale. The Emersons all come conveniently with a recess already cut out in the G10 on the undersides so I just took advantage of that. :thumbup:
No more rattle in any of these and personally they look great and blend well with the rest of the screws when all done. As is usually the case whenever I can do them this way these all can be put right back together the way they shipped. No permanent modifications were made to any factory parts. In fact not one factory part is changed one bit. I always feel better about doing them that way personally.
Anyway, thanks for looking. I took a lot of pics of these. Unfortunately these two are the only ones that came out sharp enough to post. I guess I have the shakes from not eating or something. Anyway, off to fix the no meal part of things right now.
By the way you can see these full size in my link to my blog in any of my posts with some additional information.
STR
This CQC14 is like the 15th one of these I have converted into a frame lock. Boring by now. Its been done for a few waiting on these others. All three of these belong to the same guy. I already posted a quick scan of that one but just never got around to the digitals.
The M-Waves are a first for me to convert. Seen here are a black satin finished blade and a green newer model with the black blade. Funny thing. The new green one uses a different size phillips head screw than the older black model. (smaller phillips pattern on the screw heads) Also, the hole pattern from one model to the other is just off enough that you could not swap the black frame lock side I did and put it on the green one. None of the holes line up exactly the same. They are close but just off enough that you end up with one or two screws that bind from one model year to the next apparently. Its odd. I also note the factory liner and lock on the green one are thinner than the black one.
Anyway, these M-Waves are some tough ones to do. For some reason I especially had a bit of trouble with the green one which fought me the whole way from start to finish. I stubbornly won out though.
Its flawless now. The other two went together like a dream. Only thing different about all these is the new way I'm doing my stop pins now where I pull out that 'rattle' and replace it with a screwed down pin in the way of a threaded barrel of hardened stainless. These are set up using a phillips flat head screw in a black finish on one side and a Torx on the other. I snagged these 4-40 screws from Micro Fasteners. I put the matching flat head phillips on the visible side and a button head satin screw for a T-7 driver hiding under the non lock side scale. The Emersons all come conveniently with a recess already cut out in the G10 on the undersides so I just took advantage of that. :thumbup:No more rattle in any of these and personally they look great and blend well with the rest of the screws when all done. As is usually the case whenever I can do them this way these all can be put right back together the way they shipped. No permanent modifications were made to any factory parts. In fact not one factory part is changed one bit. I always feel better about doing them that way personally.
Anyway, thanks for looking. I took a lot of pics of these. Unfortunately these two are the only ones that came out sharp enough to post. I guess I have the shakes from not eating or something. Anyway, off to fix the no meal part of things right now.
By the way you can see these full size in my link to my blog in any of my posts with some additional information.
STR
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