Emulsions for shell cordovan?

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Dec 30, 2023
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Hi guys,
Has anyone used emulsions on a shell cordovan strop? I’m only asking cause cordovan is fairly smooth and shiny, so I wonder if it will take emulsions well? If anyone here has used an emulsion on cordovan, I’d greatly appreciate his/her experience. Thanks a bunch in advance! I know, I ask a lot of questions ;)
 
I know from years of wearing shell cordovan shoes that cordovan is very dense and does not absorb liquid conditioners very well. But with polish it takes a terrific shine. Good luck, sir.
 
A shell cordovan strop is conventionally used bare. It's your money but I fear you will spoil what is special about it. I have one "Russian leather" 1" * 6" strop and I work to keep it clean.

Horsehide has been the favorite leather for strops for the past 200 years because it has a significantly more dense fiber structure than any other generally available leather. There are leathers that are 'stronger ' and more 'supple,' such as Kangaroo, which is why that is preferred for whip making and lacing, but it's not nearly as dense and firm as horsehide. Buffalo hide, especially water buffalo, is very dense, but tends to be lower in silicate levels than horsehide due to the natural silicates found in the grazing areas where water buffalo tend to be found. I know in the rural area where I live, farmers usually herd their buffalo along the sides of roads to eat the grass and weeds growing there. That way they don't have to pay for feed. Good enough to sustain the animals, but not particularly silicate-rich food when compared with Kentucky Blue Grass, alfalfa, clover, timothy, etc., etc. It is the very dense fiber, compacted further by the processing, that makes the 'structure' of the horsehide strop so desirable. Add in the high silicate count and you get a strop that works well as a final step in the sharpening process without the need to add compounds on top of it.

Vegetable tanned Cowhide, 'steer hide,' buffalo hide, etc., can all be processed, effectively compressing the fibers either by the Cordovan process or at home simply with a rolling pin on dampened leather, but will not have as high a silicate count as horsehide, thus not be 'quite' as effective without compound. They WILL produce the same edge as horsehide, but it will take at perhaps half again as many strokes to achieve it. Horsehide isn't magical. It's just dense and has a high silicate level which makes it superior to other products for use as a strop without compounds. Frankly, the average knife sharpener will get just as good results using less expensive cowhide, especially as most knife sharpeners want to use compounds. Covering up horsehide with compound negates much of its primary value.

As I said before, you can't make 'shell cordovan' from buffalo leather, but you can compress the stuff and dye it burgundy color if you wish to.
I have made strops from horsehide, cowhide, buffalo hide, and kangaroo hide. All of these have been vegetable tanned hides. When being used WITHOUT compounds, my personal experience has been that horsehide worked best, cowhide second. When used WITH compounds, my personal experience has been that horsehide, cowhide, and buffalo hide all work equally well. As long as the hide can be made dense and firm as a substrate for compounds, the results were about equal.
 
Use the horse leather as a follow up to cow.

Strop with cow at 3 micron and then strop it with the horse at 1 micron.

If you want to keep going. Next is balsa at .5 micron. Then oak at .25 - 0.1.
 
Use the horse leather as a follow up to cow.

Strop with cow at 3 micron and then strop it with the horse at 1 micron.

If you want to keep going. Next is balsa at .5 micron. Then oak at .25 - 0.1.
Thanks for the reply. Do you use 1um emulsion or paste, on horse?
 
Yes. The diamonds kinda laps into the surface of the leather as it's rubbed across the edge.

Smear the emulsion on and rub it in. Let it dry completely. Use the strop. Recharge as needed with more emulsion.
 
And, whatever micron you use. That strop is only used with that micron for the rest of it's life. It's the diamond dust that's embedded in the leather. There's no cleaning it. It has to be the same micron or it will ruin it.
 
Thanks for all the info. Very helpful!
I got a couple roo strops in 1x6 and 3x8. I like it a lot for emulsion, but it’s not a hards as Cordovan so I thought to give it a try too.
 
I believe kangaroo is in between cow and horse. I'm not sure though.

Whatever the material. It's the density that matters the most. How much it deflects under pressure. How that interacts with a burr and the apex.

So the order would be, Cow at 6 micron, kangaroo at 3, horse at 1...then the woods. Balsa, Ash, Oak. Using the ultra fine microns.

That's the reason there's a variety of materials. Chasing the perfect edge.

You'll be happy with horse as a one stop strop. 3 micron.
 
I believe kangaroo is in between cow and horse. I'm not sure though.

Whatever the material. It's the density that matters the most. How much it deflects under pressure. How that interacts with a burr and the apex.

So the order would be, Cow at 6 micron, kangaroo at 3, horse at 1...then the woods. Balsa, Ash, Oak. Using the ultra fine microns.

That's the reason there's a variety of materials. Chasing the perfect edge.

You'll be happy with horse as a one stop strop. 3 micron.
Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated. On a side not what was your experience with CBN on high vanadium, high carbide “super steel“? If I remember correctly you have those metallic cbn stones, unless I’m mistaken. Just wondering if you sharpened any high carbide, high vanadium steel?
From what I read CBN should cut fairly similar to diamond, even on those high carbide steels, right?
 
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