Endura 4 reprofile question

Megabassx7

Megabassx7

Joined
Jan 1, 2016
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354
I'm reprofiling my endura 4 wave on the sharpmaker with a dmt 2x6 course blue whetstone. It is taking ages and I mean ages before I even get the sharpie to shrink a tiny bit towards the edge. It seems like no matter what I do it is not going to apex. I'm also noticing the bevel one the belly of the knife is getting thicker than the rest of the bevel. It is also seemingly the only part of the knife that all the sharpie is gone from and still no bur on the other side yet you can feel it starting to get noticiably sharper than the rest of the the stuff. Any recommendations to get this process to go quicker? I figured daimonds would go fast but nope. Way to long. Like easily over 1000 strokes already.
 
For jobs like this, I like a Norton silicon carbide coarse stone (100 grit). You can really bear down and remove metal fast. Doing the same thing with diamond might damage it.

Look for a Norton jb8 2x8 combo stone coarse/fine (100/280 grit) $20. I prefer SiC on both sides, not the one with india on the fine side. This will make jobs like the one you're doing go much faster & easier.
 
Thanks jpm2. I will look I to it. I took my last out and am using it on 17 with the blade barely pinched in the spine and am going to take the 70 grit ec alumioxide stone to it and see if I can't atleast help getting these shoulders down some
 
DMT Extra Course & Course Diamond is your friend, zip tie it to your SM Rod to maintain the angle.
 
I have been using the 2x6 DMT course blue stone. It was takin me forever. I'm going to try fishing a bit and get back to it later
 
Your principal problem is that you're using the SharpMaker. Don't get me wrong. The SharpMaker is well designed and executed tool. But you really need to remove some metal it seems. Which calls for a different tool and more importantly a different *technique*!

"The scrub" is one way to rapidly remove metal. Using a benchstone freehand, you move the blade back and forth semi-rapidly, not lifting the blade from the stone. This allows you to really get in a lot of strokes in a rapid fashion, which removes metal quickly. I highly recommend doing this using the two handed technique to give you additional control and allow you to focus the grinding force where it is needed most. There are some details about this in secret #2 of The Seven Secrets Of Sharpening.

It's already been mentioned, but a VERY coarse stone is really useful for tasks like this. A DMT C is a wonderful plate with a lot of uses. But it's not coarse enough to rapidly change the shape of a blade. It's not bad, but you want something more coarse for this job. The above mentioned coarse Silicon Carbide stone (Norton) would be a fantastic choice. Read secret #7 also, which discusses this further.

Once you've done the bulk of the metal removal, you can go back to the SharpMaker and use it in the normal way.

Good luck to you.

Brian.
 
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Thank you for the advice Brian. I have a Norton on order now. I have your secrets to sharpening and I can say it has definitely helped me in my freehanding. I just don't trust my skills to make someone else's knife look pretty and perfect as I can using a guided system lol
 
After about 4 hours total today with the lansky and dmt blue stone I still can't get it to apex. Under magnification the sharpie is still at the very edge and it seems as if a micro bevel of some overly obese angle is there. No matter what I can't not get past that on either side of the knife. I'm stumped here....any ideas what's going on??
 
I also took down mine (sabre grind). It does seem to take forever. Clean the stone often otherwise it tends to clog.

If you're sure the angle is right, just keeping at it. My bevel now is about 4-5 mm wide because of this thinning down.

Edit to add:
During my thinning down session, DMT red ate more metal faster than DMT blue. I think it's because of the amount of clogging. Mine is the credit card size and I use stone one hand, knife in the other. The two hand scrubbing method is definitely faster though. Remember to use light pressure, otherwise the deep scratch pattern will take longer to remove during refining session. Also it tears out the diamonds (too much pressure). In my use, the combo of my pressure, the amount of clogging and the grit, red (fine) works faster.
YMMV of course.
 
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Did you have the same issue with what appeared to a micro bevel that wouldn't go away? In some spots( the hilt and tip) I developed a rather chunky bur but it is on both sides???
 
So I gave up and gave it a good ol convex edge on my friends wskts-ko. Then ran it on the SM and it is about as sharp as I wanted it. So for reprofiling would you recommend the edge pro or the ko with bga?
 
Megabassx7 said:
So for reprofiling would you recommend the edge pro or the ko with bga?
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If you're patient and you want extremely precise results, the Edge Pro. If you're less patient and you are ok with an edge that might not be super perfect, then the WSKO. The more you practice with the WSKO, the better your edges will look. But it's a high speed, hand aligned tool, so it's bound to be less precise than the Edge Pro.

Brian.
 
Megabassx7 said:
Did you have the same issue with what appeared to a micro bevel that wouldn't go away? In some spots( the hilt and tip) I developed a rather chunky bur but it is on both sides???
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Not unusual. The heel of mine didn't get 100% worked out, but I made sure the tip did.

Endura has a bit of flat out part coming to tip, as if the belly suddenly stopped curving & went straight again. This might also cause problem.

At the heel, near the ricasso, usually sharpening stone can't reach fully. So I added a sharpening notch.

There's no way with patience you fail. It's a matter of removing the shoulder to make the bevel meet at apex. I was frustrated initially but remembering that a fully apexed edge is nice gave me perseverance to keep on.
Now that you've convexed it, next sharpening might be a challenge as the apex is more obtuse than the bevel. You'd need different strategy for that.
I don't have any jigs, so I force all bevel to follow the angle my hand produces. It's easier for me in the long run.
 
It was very frustrating to say the least. I would remove almost all the sharpie with a couple swipes across the stone but that tiny bit at the very edge just wasn't coming out. After its convexed I cut a ton of cardboard at work just to see how it would take to a sharpmaker. It brought it back to hair popping in no time though. I know it's not truly convexed now but in my work knife i dont think it's too much of a bother to me. If it gets too bad I'll and it to spyderco and request a 30 inclusive be put on
 
Megabassx7 said:
It was very frustrating to say the least. I would remove almost all the sharpie with a couple swipes across the stone but that tiny bit at the very edge just wasn't coming out. After its convexed I cut a ton of cardboard at work just to see how it would take to a sharpmaker. It brought it back to hair popping in no time though. I know it's not truly convexed now but in my work knife i dont think it's too much of a bother to me. If it gets too bad I'll and it to spyderco and request a 30 inclusive be put on
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From your description, it seems the edge was apexed and thinned down properly on the WS, so that you can touch up with SM. Whatever works :thumbup:
 
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