Endura won't take an edge

K

Kamcop

Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Messages
9
I've been sharpening my Endura with a Lansky since day one and it always took a wicked edge but lately it just won't. Ideas?
 
I don't let it get bad. I use a 25 on it. It's always taken an edge and quick because of the whole same angle every time. Just won't anymore and it's not like there's a bunch of blade erosion. Oh and it's VG10
 
worn down where you need to reprofile the primary bevel back to 15 per side to hit the edge/micro bevel at 25 per side degrees? just a thought.
 
Use a Sharpie marker to blacken the edge and then see if the stone is actually hitting the apex or shoulder.
 
Need to check with sharpie if you're hitting the apex. Are you feeling a bur form at all? it's either not hitting the apex or you haven't knocked the bur off properly, but i'm guessing it's an apex issue.
 
I don't own Lansky, so this is just a guess.
Can you get a good edge on another VG-10 knife? If not, the stones may be clogged, uneven, or worn out too badly.


Miso
 
Use the Lansky on the 20° and start from the beginning, check for a bur before progressing to the next stone
 
Edges are simple things. I'd bet jbmonkey is right and you're simply not reaching the apex with the stone. You can remove material all day, but if it's not from the apex of the edge it's not going to get any sharper.

Surefire way to get it sharp:

Use your lowest grit stone on the lowest angle you can manage with the Lansky. 15 degrees would be good.

Sharpen each side until you feel a burr form along the full length of the blade.

You can increase grit at this angle if you want, but it's not necessary.

Then go back to 25 degrees per side and create a micro-bevel with finer grit stones and then just sharpen as normal.
 
That's how I do all of my knives. Billed as my "utility" edge. Resharpens easily and saves loads of time over polishing the full width of a primary bevel.
 
Everything that TLE just said. If you have the ability to reprofile the edge at low grit to 15 dps then that would be ideal. From there I would recommend using a 20 degree per side microbevel rather than the 25 degree you were using before. You will notice that resharpening will seem almost effortless on the microbevel once you have re profiled.
 
As an amateur knife maker, I own the Lansky, Spyderco Trisharp, Apex Edge Pro, diamond stones, Japanese stones, the Wicked Edge, 2x72 grinder, and the 6 inch cardboard wheels for my buffer. They all work if you take the time to learn how to use them. That being said, I am going to ask a silly question because this happened to me. Are you sure you have a real Spyderco. I bought a Military and could not get an edge on it. I sent it to Spyderco for some other work and they informed me it was a knockoff. Just askin'
 
What stones are you using? It sounds like either the knife needs a new bevel put on it or your stones are the problem. Do the stones put a good edge on other blades?
 
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