Engnath Blades - Handles

Loki · Jul 17, 2000

I've got 15 of Bob Engnath's blades to finish (wish Bob were still with us). So far I've got two polished and ready to fit scales. The question I have relates to fitting the scales as the metal blade surface is not perfectly "flat." Seeing as I'm a rank beginner, I'd like to not screw up too badly. Scraping the scales is the first option. I read here once about "hollowing" out the backside of the scale to help in fitting. Anyone have any other options or words of wisdom.

Brett Bennett · Jul 17, 2000

Loki,

Your best bet (assuming you do not have a grinder and the tangs are not too far from true) is too adhere (with spray adhesive available from your local hardware) silicon carbide sanding sheets to a flat surface (I use an old granite countertop, but sanding blocks may be purchased from MSC or Harbor Freight if you are unable to scrounge something). Buy a magnet to allow you to push your tang lengthwise along the sandpaper. I like the one that K&G sells. I would personally start with 220 grit (without seeing the knives) and work from there. Using a cutting fluid like Cool Tool II (also available from K&G) will extend the life of your sandpaper.
Perhaps someone can list the thread (or check the archives) for the list of supply houses. If not, I have it at home somewhere.

Brett

Mike Conner · Jul 17, 2000

Wouldn't be interested in selling any of the blades would you?
MikeC

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Killing the dog won't cure the bite!

[This message has been edited by Mike Conner (edited 07-17-2000).]

Dt_Trainer · Jul 18, 2000

Loki,

If your not interested in selling the blades would you be interested in tracing some of the blanks and making the traced templets avaible to some of us other rookies who weren't as lucky to get one of "Grind's" blade blanks?

I am especially interested in the MAT Tanto if you have one.

Thanks,

Jim

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The warrior will endure great personal hardship in order to stand on a hill, howl at the moon, and proclaim his domain over all he surveys. Fredrick Lovert- Author

Jul 18, 2000

If you have access to a disc sander try using that to do your flats. It worked very well for me. I use a magnet to hold the blade. I have also heard that a 6x48 belt sander works well also.

Loki · Jul 19, 2000

Thanks for the advice. I don't really plan on parting with any of these blades. They are all of his smaller designs and no tantos. The closest I have is the smaller martial arts dagger in 440c. If you're interested in the patterns they can still be found on the Web - check with James Mattis of Chai Cutlery for links to the old Blades & Stuff links.

indian george · Jul 19, 2000

I still have one of Bob's #112 M.A.S. (martial art sword) the I specialed order with 1/8 pin holes about 4 years ago that I never got to finish.

C L Wilkins · Jul 19, 2000

Loki,
If you need a copy of the supplier's list, email me. That goes for anyone else out there as well.

As far as fitting the scales goes, it may be nice to know what kind of equipment you have at this time. In other words, do you have a belt grinder of any sort? It may be easier to answer your questions if some of the folks know that up front. If you do have a belt grinder then you can always flatten the tang, assuming that these are full tang blades. If these are full tang blades then you may want to hollow or scallop the tang to allow the scales to adhere better. One thing that I do is use bolts instead of pins or a combination thereof to attach the scales.
Bolts ensure they won't come off.

Craig

Loki · Jul 20, 2000

I'm spartan on the equipment. The only powere stuff I have is a small 1" belt sander, small drill press, and a dremel tool. I'd love to have more and better but my space is severely limited. I've put together several hidden tang knives using swedish and norwegian made blades - more experiments than anything. The full tang knives are my next projects, probably take a couple of years to finish. The tangs are a bit of a challnge because of the uneven surfaces. Looks like slightly hollowing out the back side of the scale and scraping the high points my be the best way to approach as some of the tangs have a considerable difference in "elevation." Grinding flat the hardened ATS-34 and 440c seems like alot more work than changing the shape of micarta or wood. I'll probably experiment and try different approaches.