Enough about sharpening; what about finishes?

Nicholas · Jun 9, 2009

Once again, I have recalled questions that I intended to ask, long ago: what are the available blade finishes from HI, and what are their pros and cons?

Both here and elsewhere, I've heard about mirror finishes, stain finishes, "Villager" finishes and, in the form of aftermarket modifications, blade etches (both light and heavy). Mirror finishes, for example, seem to be pretty standard (and purportedly come quite nicely done), and I've heard it alleged that they have some rust-deterrent properties. But this could be dead wrong, and a few people here vocally prefer the "villager" finish.

Light etching (so as to display the temper line) intrigues me, since it would allow a way to show off the quality of the kami's work, and be consistent with the late Uncle Bill's "Armor-All Potion" approach to bringing out the wood's details, in much the same way (which I also like the idea of). But does and etched blade always have to have a matte surface?

These questions and more.....on tonight's HI Forum!

olpappy · Jun 9, 2009

A polished finish theoretically is a bit more resistant to rust than a satin finish, but the difference in protection is so slight that to my mind it doesn't make much difference.

An etched finish is slightly more resistant to rust than an un-etched finish, satin or mirrored. But again, the protection is only relative, it will still rust if exposed to moisture or not oiled.

A blued finish, hot or cold, is also more resistant/protected than a simple etch.

So yes there are slight theoretical differences in susceptibility to oxidation, however the bottom line is than any carbon steel no matter how polished or etched, will still rust if not cleaned and oiled.

So basically it's user preference on how you like it to look, because all 4 finishes still require proper maintenance.

I think many people prefer satin finish because if you find rust, you need to use abrasive to remove it, hence the satin finish won't show scratches, as using sandpaper on a mirror or etched finish would show the scratches.

If you want to etch to show the temper line, you will need to rough up the surface to make the etch take evenly, if you try it on a polished surface the etching results will be uneven. After you've etched the blade, some degree of polishing with abrasive is usually applied to make it shiny again. Using a too coarse abrasive will remove all of the etching. Usually 600-1500 grit sandpaper, followed by simichrome polish, is enough to produce a nice shiny finish while still preserved the etching you just applied. The results will look beautiful for a collector's item, however after going through all this work to produce a beautiful finish, you may not feel like taking your kuk into the field to throw some dirt and scratches on it.... hence the popularity of satin finish. Any scratches, rust and dirt are easily removed with sandpaper, yet still blends nicely into the satin finish.

jake the ssnake · Jun 9, 2009

I have a few with "villager" and a few with "mirror" finishes. I prefer the villager finish for anything that will see hard work, the mirror finish is too hard to keep looking nice if you plan on using it alot (it scratches pretty easily). I'm sure some people have good ways of keeping the look but I'd just as soon not worry about the finish on a "working" blade, and concentrate more on the edge and keeping it oiled. That being said the mirror looks absolutely gorgeous, I almost don't want to use mine, which kind of defeats the purpose.

eleventh · Jun 9, 2009

isn't there also a "forged finish" offered?

b.c.molin · Jun 9, 2009

eleventh said:
isn't there also a "forged finish" offered?

Yes, there is but it has only been on offer for about the last 2 months or so.

Thus its long term properties are as yet unknown.

Excellent and informative post olpappy! :thumbup:

Nicholas · Jun 9, 2009

Hmmm...... It sounds like the mirror finish is best suited for a kothimora! Too bad, I heard they're beautiful around these parts.

The Villager finish seems to be pretty plain, but not unattractive; I'm inclined to consider it. How different is this from other, non-mirror finishes?

And is an etch essentially a finish unto itself, or can it be polished up, and still keep the visible temper line?

C.S. Graves · Jun 11, 2009

Nicholas said:
And is an etch essentially a finish unto itself, or can it be polished up, and still keep the visible temper line?

An etch will be a chemical reaction on the surface of the steel... polishing will remove much of the etch and the hamon. Would probably easier to do a very subtle etch, say, with really watered-down vinegar to bring the differential hardness line out than to apply a heavy etch and polish it gradually down, but I could be wrong.

olpappy said:
So yes there are slight theoretical differences in susceptibility to oxidation, however the bottom line is than any carbon steel no matter how polished or etched, will still rust if not cleaned and oiled.

So far I've been able to avoid rust just by cleaning the blades occasionally. I got tired of always having to wipe oil off and re-applying, and haven't had any rust on my users yet. Khuks that are less frequently used and/or in more humid conditions probably could benefit from the oil though as a preventative measure.

Nicholas · Jun 12, 2009

C.S. Graves said:
An etch will be a chemical reaction on the surface of the steel... polishing will remove much of the etch and the hamon.

Ok; I've got it now.

Would probably easier to do a very subtle etch, say, with really watered-down vinegar to bring the differential hardness line out than to apply a heavy etch and polish it gradually down, but I could be wrong.

No, I think you're right. I figure I'll just get a villager finish, and etch it.

Now, I just have to find a thread that shows me how. I've got plenty of vinegar, in about 3 kinds; will that really do it?

Karda · Jun 12, 2009

Nicholas said:
Now, I just have to find a thread that shows me how

Nicholas · Jun 12, 2009

Thanks, Karda; I'm sure that I can pull this off, now.

Racerx2oo3 · Jun 12, 2009

I have a 18" WWII by Bura that came with a mirror finish. It now sports a satin finish. If you use your khuk on anything that has a high resin or sap content, you'll be hard pressed to maintain the mirror finish. The easiest way to clean that stuff off the blade is hot water and a scotch brite pad, then a light oiling. If you just want a pretty looking blade, then mirrored works great. However, I find that for actual use you tend to end up with a satin finish just from maintaining the blade.