Epoxy and handles, clamping question

jonnymac44

jonnymac44

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
7,680
Okay, yes I know I should have posted this earlier today before I went and mixed up the epoxy, but.........you know how it goes sometimes:D

I've been using slow cure epoxy on all of my handles and have had pretty good success, but I've had an issue here and there where slabs and liners came apart. Could have been from not cleaning or prepping well enough, but sometimes I wonder if it's from squeezing out too much epoxy and not having enough left between for a bond.

I just now glued up some jigged bone slabs to some G-10 liners and I started thinking that maybe I should just press them together lightly and leave them on the bench to cure for ten minutes or so before I clamp them down with spring clamps. I thought it might let the epoxy harden up just a bit before the pressure is applied and keep more from oozing out the sides.

I am using West Systems G-Flex that cures in 45 minutes and I always rough up my surfaces then clean thoroughly with rubbing alcohol. I also always drill in some dimples on the back side of the handle material for epoxy to collect in and make a thicker bond.

What do you guys think? Clamp immediately or let it set for a few minutes?

Thanks, and by the way......quick answers would be appreciated since it's already been five minutes since I glued them together!!:o
 
Well I would think that if you waited til the "green" stage, then that's to long. A good indicator is the extra stuff you have left over. Once it starts to feel warm then you will no longer get it to stick to anything. But since the stuff that is spread thin under your knife scales it will "kick" slower so I would feel fine about once the extra starts to kick, then clamp to ful pressure. Does that make any sense? Damn cold medicine...


-Xander
 
LOL, damn cold medicine!! Yeah, I get what you're saying. I went ahead and clamped it down all the way a little bit ago since I hadn't heard anything. If it doesn't work I have plenty of time to re do this one. I think it should work fine though, I didn't let it set for too long and the gflex has plenty of work time before it sets.
 
Sometimes I will lay a couple of strands of thread between the surfaces to act as spacers so I don't squeeze out too much of the adhesive. I use regular sewing thread.

Ric
 
I use acra glass and have never had a problem. I spread the epoxy on and clamp tight! That being said I did have a problem using this procedeure with the G series from west. When I talked to Chuck a AKS he told me that the west system need to have a minimum film of .005 or something like that. I do not like seing glue lines in my work so I am still using the acra glass.
 
.008 is the minimum thickness for maximum joint strength with G-flex, but from what I understand this is typical when laminating with epoxy. I believe there is a fiber additive availible that is intended to help assure proper joint thickness.
 
This may be over kill , but this is how I now do it and have had no issues . I epoxy up the tang and put epoxy on the liner ( epoxy on both contact surfaces ) put in the pins and then put that side in the knife , then same thing on the other side , epoxy tang , liner , put them on , then more epoxy on the liner and then the scale and put together and clamp . I also drill holes through the liners to match up with the epoxy rivet holes in the tang . It is messy , but everything is coated .

When I was only putting epoxy on one surface , I did have a failure .
 
I use Acraglas and never have had a problem, I had to remove a set of scales due to a void in the wood and had to grind them off.

One thing I do is after rough shaping and when I am ready to epoxy the scales I take the scales to my top wheel with a worn 50 grit belt slow my grinder way down and pocket it a bit on the back side staying at least 1/8" from the sides and only relieving it by about .010". You could use a dremel for this as well.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top