Epoxy fix horn handle

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xylum

Joined
Dec 11, 2011
Messages
187
Alright friends. I got my WWII blem today. The horn handle has a tiny crack line along the back. There's some space, but very little. So how exactly do I do this? I'm thinking mix up some epoxy, try stuffing it in the crack, wipe it off, let it dry, maybe sand it down? I'm worried that I might not get enough epoxy in the crack, does that mean its probably not that big of a deal anyway.

I've searched the forum, but the details are always buried in like page 2 or 3 of a DOTD. Anyway, any help, or advice, details, techniques, etc?

Thanks.
 
Try and press the epoxy into the crack. The sanding method doesn't work as well on horn as it does wood. You might want to get some Rit dye to color the epoxy, horn is like a finger nail and turns to white powder when sanded. I had to fill and repair the center ring area on my 15 AK. The three rings were split and lifted up. I could put a business card between the gap almost an 1/8 high and a 1/4 deep. I had to fill it with a lot of epoxy. I didnt have dye so I broke a black pen open and used the tinyest bit of black ink to color it. I did use some wet dry 1200 grit paper and mineral oil to bring back the sheen.
Good luck!
 
For thin cracks plain old superglue works great and it dries clear so it will appear black when youre done. Sand it smooth and buff it with a soft buffing wheel for ultimate shine.
 
A good thing to do is put a piece of tape along each side of the crack so whatever you decide to use will minimize cleanup and sanding. Hooflex is great stuff for treating horn after the repair is done.
 
Really glad to see this thread. I've got a Sirupati with a hairline crack in the horn coming very soon. Can't wait to open that triangle box.
 
I would try hydrating it with hooflex first. Many times, a good drink will seal up a crack. If nothing else, a little super glue will fix it. Epoxy is good for substantial booboos. Super glue will dry nearly invisible.
 
Kids are finally asleep so I have some time to really look at it close. In good lighting it has some stripes, pretty cool.

The crack is definitely smaller than a credit card. I'm leaning toward the super glue. The horn in the crack looks all fibrous, like it'll wick that super right up.

I wasn't planning on the hooflex. I was just going to use mineral oil, partly because I've seen it recommended. But mainly because that's what I have available, and I really like making due with whats on hand. I've also seen the order as glue then hydrate. What about lanolin on horn? I can't remember what I saw about that, I'll have to search that.

So, question here. I am I doing a structural fix, or cosmetic, or a bit of both? It kind of feels like a bit of structural, just to make sure the crack doesn't grow. But mostly cosmetic, so that I can smooth it out, and not feel the crack in hand.

Thanks all.
 
I'd say your doing a bit of both. Your preventing it from getting worse and making it look better too.

Mineral oil is fine when your done, hoof flex is good stuff but if you don't have a horse or other needs for it you'll need 10 drops out of the pint that will be on the shelf the rest of your life. You don't need that. I don't recommend getting a horse to justify the hoof flex neither, they are like a boat, a hole in the ground to throw money in.
 
Bawanna said:
I'd say your doing a bit of both. Your preventing it from getting worse and making it look better too.

Mineral oil is fine when your done, hoof flex is good stuff but if you don't have a horse or other needs for it you'll need 10 drops out of the pint that will be on the shelf the rest of your life. You don't need that. I don't recommend getting a horse to justify the hoof flex neither, they are like a boat, a hole in the ground to throw money in.
Click to expand...

You're also describing a swimming pool:D
At least a horse good eatin' when you're done riding 'em:p
 
Steely_Gunz said:
You're also describing a swimming pool:D
At least a horse good eatin' when you're done riding 'em:p
Click to expand...

Pray that my wife and daughter never hear you said that. There will be no place on earth for you to hide.

I have 3 buried in the back yard. I hope they grieve half as much when I pass as they did for them hay burners.

And wife is Swedish where they eat horse meat in restaurants. Apparently I've civilized her in the western ways, perhaps too far maybe.
 
Zombie Zeke? I just love that name. Is it your real name or you use it as an alias. Wish I'd thunk up something cleaver like that. Kind of rolls off from the tongue.
 
Alright. I did the superglue. It sealed up the crack pretty good. I did make a few mistakes. I tried wiping it smooth after I applied it, which just smeared it around more. If I did it again I would put a bead of glue on, then sand it down after it dried. Then I sanded, 400-2000 grit. The handle is not glossy anymore, but it feels smooth in hand, and that's more important. I've been wiping it with mineral oil too.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
If you have a buffing motor put on a medium wheel with red rouge to really make it shine.
 
Even a buffer wheel on a dremel tool will bring the shine back. Not as good as a real buffer but still good.

A little bit safer and not as likely to chuck the khuk across the shop like playing high velocity lawn darts.

I don't do much polishing but you gotta be wicked careful polishing knives.
 
I gotta check what I have in the dremel box. I think there were some polishing bits in there. A project for tonight after the kids go to bed.
 
Horn polishes a lot like aluminum just don't get it hot as to scorch it. If you're using a dremel no need to worry as you'll drag the motor down if you push too hard. Just keep the wheel moving and you'll be fine.
 
Dirtbiker wins the internet today. Good point on the heat thing. Don't want to get any horn to hot. If it burns your finger when you touch it, your way too aggressive. This is especially true with like ivory and many other things too.
Low and slow, think passionate and you'll have a completely harmonious outcome.
 
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