Epoxy on outer handle

R

rkwalker

Joined
Oct 20, 2002
Messages
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I am attempting to use epoxy on the outside of my knife handle. I read in these forums where people had done this but its not working for me. Having a problem getting it to be a smooth surface. Have used q tip, gauze, sponge etc but I keep getting lines and rough surface ,can't get a smooth layer. Have tried sanding between layers but then the expoy get foggy looking and I can't figure out how to get back the sheen. thanks for any help
 
I don't know of a good way to apply the epoxy without some streaks, dust lumps, etc.

Sand it smooth between coats, and on the final coat sand with progressively finer grits (maybe up through 1500 or 2000 grit), then lightly buff. If you did it right, and were using a "clear" epoxy, it should look like a piece of glass.

Hope this helps.

Robert
 
I only have up to 600 grit so I will stop by the hardware store to see if I can get some finer grit and give that a try. thanks
 
Higher than 600 grit is hard to find at hardware stores. Some auto parts stores have wet/dry SiC paper. Online you can get paper from a lot of sources like Trugrit and Supergrit.

You can also use a buffer with a jewelry polish like Fab-U-Luster after the fine sanding. Be careful not to polish the metal parts or the wheel will get black and screw up the polish on the wood/epoxy.
 
I have one of those wierd belt sizes craftman 2x42 in. so 600 grit is the best I can do for my machine. Figured I could just buy the finer grits in sheets and hand sand the handle. I only have one buffing wheel and that has the black you are talking about so I don't think I'll try using that on my handle.
 
Hans sand! I do al my finish sanding on handles by hand. Unless you have very flat or boxy handles, in which case you can stick with the grinder. it doesnt take THAT long to step from 400 to 1000 grit on wood. A light buff on 1000 grit sanded wood will get about as fine a finish as you'd want. Any finer and the grain of the wood is usually rougher than the paper you are using.
 
Are you trying to use the epoxy as a sealer? If so, you might try superglue. After it dries, I start with a 600 and go to about 1500, then buff lightly. If you are using it for something else, then disregard this.
 
Yes I am trying to seal the wood with the epoxy. Where it is smooth its like looking into a deep pool of water (but that is a very small area- the rest is rough ) I have tried polyurthane before but am afraid of yellowing years down the line & had read about using epoxy and tought to give it a try. I will try the superglue on my next knife unless I end up sanding this one back to bare wood.
 
Its not going to happen. I was fortunate to once visit a bamboo rod maker and was shown his operation. Not epoxy finish did he use. He had constructed a remarkable contraption that pulled the rod very slowely up through a tube of Waterlox (Google Waterlox - which I do not really recommend for your scale finish). The only way in my opinion you can get a real smooth finish using epoxy is to have the piece rotating as you apply or lightly brush opon its surface as it rotates. The rotation helps keep it level as curing occurs. The killer for us is that the finish will also apply to the tang and the build up will show as a delimeter between handle face and blade. If a hidden tang it can be done that way and it would work super good. If scales forget it if attached to blade. Epoxy is a tough way to go for final finish. Super glue is too but there is a thinner for super glue and knife scales have been finished well that way. Another important concideration is to be very sure all grain is filled before the hard final finish is applied. The hard finish will NOT fill that grain or voids.

rlinger
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I use epoxy on some knife grips. It is tough and completely waterproof. It will break down if exposed to sunlight over time but not many knives are left lying around in the sun a lot.

The method I use is to smear the epoxy on by hand (wearing disposable rubber gloves). Smear it on very thinly with one finger and rub it in well. I can get a good, tough, matte finish doing this. If you want to build up successive coats (not necessary for moisture proofing but you may want to do it for cosmetic reasons) then the best approach is to apply wet on wet. Wait til the first coat is tacky then put the next coat on. The coats bond best in this way. The time between coats will vary according to the weather and the type of hardener.
 
rlinger I just read your website on refinishing wood stocks- this sounds like a good way to finish off knife handles. Sanding the epoxy with 1000 grit hasn't done much for me yet as finish still has a foggy look and some of the lines are still deep and showing.
 
I ended up sanding handle back to bare wood because the epoxy just would not get line free. Followed the steps on rlinger web site using mineral sprits and tung oil and have a beautiful handle now (except where I screwed up the handle area around the index finger groove --sanding)
 
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