Epoxy

JB Kwik Weld. I have split apart stabilized curly maple before when trying to remove a handle epoxied with Jb Kwik Weld onto a metal tang; the wood let go in some places where the epoxy held. I also used JB Kwik Weld to make a Japanese style Wa handle for a kitchen knife and epoxied the knife onto the hidden tang with the Kwik Weld, too. I split the Micarta ferrule trying to remove the handle from the tang when I went with a thick metal bar and hammer with the blade in a vise to remove the handle. It's still attached to this day. No pins or anything, just the Kwik Weld.
 
Are people using the same epoxy for scales as for WA handles? I have GFlex for scales, but for WA handles have been using some 5 minute epoxy from the hardware store. I haven't tried the GFlex in a WA handle.
 
Some guys are using hot melt glue for Wa handles to make them easier to remove and replace. 5 Minute epoxy is usually OK and the handle can be boiled off. JB Kwik Weld is a more permanent epoxy and you usually need to break the handle off.
 
Ricky-O said:
Are people using the same epoxy for scales as for WA handles? I have GFlex for scales, but for WA handles have been using some 5 minute epoxy from the hardware store. I haven't tried the GFlex in a WA handle.
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Wa handle is a better application for epoxy than scales, so if it works for scales it'll work for a wa handle

At least for what I do, hidden tang kitchen knives, i would be confident using any good quality slow curing epoxy. I use a local brand's 24 hour one i can get from the hardware store. Appropriate surface prep is more important than brand
 
I used Acra Glass until they changed the formula a few years back. I switched to G-Flex and haven't looked back since. Great stuff.
 
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