ERU passaround--help needed.

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May 2, 2004
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Help me out here guys:eek:


The ERU is a work in progress and I'm always looking for ways to improve on the original. I posted here in maintenance wanting feedback from you folks, who understand sharp. Someone's post on this forum prompted this advancement.

The inserts in the ERU are set using a precision square; they are set along both axis relative to the degree indicator. This is not accurate enough; the human eye won't produce the accuracy needed. To reach its potential the carbide inserts must be lapped after they are mounted in the individual aluminum disc.
The fixture pictured below allows the carbide surfaces to be lapped, on a diamond plate, square relative to the sharpeners axis. The result is more surface area abrading the edge when drawing a blade is pulled through the carbide "V". It's pushed the degree of sharp up a considerable amount from the mechanical setting.
This sharpener, with its carbide inserts lapped on a diamond plate will produce shaving sharp edges without stropping. I was amazed at the difference from the original.

Thanks for your input, it has been invaluable, Fred

Who ever has the ERU on the passaround here on BF, if you have a diamond plate would you lap the carbide surfaces in the manner shown? If you don't have a diamond plate ship it to me and I'll do the work.

If you purchased an ERU from the first run of 50, [orange] contact me or drop your sharpener in the mail and I will lap the inserts and return it to you.


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I'm trying to find a good substitute for the nylon block but don't think I have anything that is precisely square like that.
 
I would use anything that doesn't abrade easily. The nylon slides along without being effected by the diamond surface; I use a spray of koolmist to lubricate the surface. It takes about 25 strokes or so to square the surface.
A wooden block will work fine for the short time its needed.

Fred
 
I would lap my imaginary ERU this way. Clamp ERU to a vise with carbide face horizontal/flat. Sharpie to carbide face. Then use continuous DMT credit card X or C back with a bubble ruler to file/lap the carbide face.
 
I would lap my imaginary ERU this way. Clamp ERU to a vise with carbide face horizontal/flat. Siharpie to carbide face. Then use continuous DMT credit card X or C back with a bubble ruler to file/lap the carbide face.

I don't know if this would result in surfaces that are completely flat as well as square to the disc itself. I believe, since the flatness of the surface, depends on keeping the bubble centered, just a slight movement in the bubble would cause the DMT to move off line. The imaginary ERU would need to be leveled in the vise in order for the bubble ruler to correspond with the sharpener itself.

Fred
 
I would stick to Fred's method. Just like freehand sharpening a knife, you won't get it flat without a guide holding it in alignment. Brass should do fine as well. Diamond will cut anything you use so don't worry about it for the short time it will take. Obviously don't use anything like a toolmaker's square, use something throwaway. Good idea Fred.
 
Wouldn't one be able to keep the block stationary and move the ERU against it?

Either way if one is worried, they can put some soapy water on top of the plate with the block. This way whatever does abrade won't clog up the surface. Don't want to throw it off square/flat because it's gliding along too much swarf.
 
Wouldn't one be able to keep the block stationary and move the ERU against it?

Either way if one is worried, they can put some soapy water on top of the plate with the block. This way whatever does abrade won't clog up the surface. Don't want to throw it off square/flat because it's gliding along too much swarf.
I used Koolmist, a water based milling coolant, to slide along the diamond plate. The insert contact surfaces are very close to square; the dozen that I lapped last week took only 15 or 20 passes along the abrading surface to accomplish the goal.

The motion I used was with the length of the plate as opposed to across the face of the block.
 
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