- Joined
- May 2, 2004
- Messages
- 6,848
​If you are using an ERU for edge maintenance, here are a couple of tips for producing the sharpest flattest edge using this system.
Use the degree wedges, supplied, to control the angle when sharpening on a stone or plate this will produce a consistently "Flat" edge bevel. Its only a matter of locking your wrist, when the ricasso is placed on the wedge.
Use light pressure on the stone or plate as the grit becomes finer. If the last grit used is 1000, switch from side to side to get the apex, with the attached burr, in the center of the blade.
If the 15 degree wedge was used to establish the cutting bevel, when you switch to the ERU to remove the burr, make the first few passes with the angle set at exactly 30 degrees, twice the angle used per side on the stone. Use little if any pressure when drawing the edge through the opening. This operation is removing the burr on an extremely "Flat" edge. If to much pressure is used to remove the burr, the pressure can alter the wonderful flat edge you just created on the stone. If the sharpening was done properly on the stone, there is very little to remove in the way of a burr and the ERU will remove it in just two or three passes with "light" pressure. I've found there is no need to use a strop at this point. If you want to refine the edge slightly, instead of stropping, change the angle opening by 1 or 2 degrees. Pass the edge through the "V" with Light pressure or just use the weight of the blade. One or two passes at this micro angle will complete the edge. Keep the spine aligned with the alignment pin.
Always use light pressure with this tool. It is extremely accurate and it excels when used in this manner.
Happy to expand on this if needed or will answer any questions you might have.
Regards, Fred
Use the degree wedges, supplied, to control the angle when sharpening on a stone or plate this will produce a consistently "Flat" edge bevel. Its only a matter of locking your wrist, when the ricasso is placed on the wedge.
Use light pressure on the stone or plate as the grit becomes finer. If the last grit used is 1000, switch from side to side to get the apex, with the attached burr, in the center of the blade.
If the 15 degree wedge was used to establish the cutting bevel, when you switch to the ERU to remove the burr, make the first few passes with the angle set at exactly 30 degrees, twice the angle used per side on the stone. Use little if any pressure when drawing the edge through the opening. This operation is removing the burr on an extremely "Flat" edge. If to much pressure is used to remove the burr, the pressure can alter the wonderful flat edge you just created on the stone. If the sharpening was done properly on the stone, there is very little to remove in the way of a burr and the ERU will remove it in just two or three passes with "light" pressure. I've found there is no need to use a strop at this point. If you want to refine the edge slightly, instead of stropping, change the angle opening by 1 or 2 degrees. Pass the edge through the "V" with Light pressure or just use the weight of the blade. One or two passes at this micro angle will complete the edge. Keep the spine aligned with the alignment pin.
Always use light pressure with this tool. It is extremely accurate and it excels when used in this manner.
Happy to expand on this if needed or will answer any questions you might have.
Regards, Fred