- - Esee 5 micro-chip - - HELP

B

bigboy2011

Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
228
Well.. Just gotten my first knife, an Esee-5, love it a lot. Was cutting a small branch on concrete and forgot I had it on concrete.. And it went right through the branch and dulled the blade, and a little little "micro" chip.

Is there any way to sharpen up a blade without supplies (Stones, paper wheels, etc)..? All i have is a cheap stone that my parents have bought a while ago, but it's a bit to coarse. And some pairs of leather belts.
 
Bottom of a ceramic coffee mug (the "unglazed ring)... Edge of a car window... back of a ceramic tile... strop on the cardboard back of a legal pad, or belt.

all will take a little knowledge of sharpening technique...
 
Home depot has a Norton stone for about $5, buy a small section of MDF while there and some polishing to make strops. Cut MDF to desired strop size and rub compound on surface creating a light coating. Practice until blue in the face.
 
mattmanyam said:
Bottom of a ceramic coffee mug (the "unglazed ring)... Edge of a car window... back of a ceramic tile... strop on the cardboard back of a legal pad, or belt.

all will take a little knowledge of sharpening technique...
Click to expand...

and none will repair the chips nor get it back to sharp after hiting concrete. you best bet is the stone, light and slow, then the bottom of the ceramic mug will probably refine it a bit then a legal pad ...


don't be affraid of your stone even an edge from a cheap sickle stone will be better than no edge at all.
 
Last edited:
bigboy2011 said:
Well.. Just gotten my first knife, an Esee-5, love it a lot. Was cutting a small branch on concrete and forgot I had it on concrete.. And it went right through the branch and dulled the blade, and a little little "micro" chip.

Is there any way to sharpen up a blade without supplies (Stones, paper wheels, etc)..? All i have is a cheap stone that my parents have bought a while ago, but it's a bit to coarse. And some pairs of leather belts.
Click to expand...

In terms of materials, some wet/dry sandpaper would be the easiest, most effective & least expensive solution I'd reach for first. Some 3M brand, or Norton; both work well, in maybe 400-800 grit. A sheet can be laid out on a smooth surface, like a countertop or glass (ideal). Add some water, which will help the paper cling to the surface. Use it like a stone. Light pressure is always best, both for your edges and to prevent cutting into the paper. Practice on a kitchen knife or some other blade that you won't worry about scuffing up.
 
As long as the stone you have is nice and flat and not clogged, that should work fine for restoring the edge. Course is what you want for that kind of work. Once you've got it back into shape on the stone, I'd follow Obsessed's advice and use sandpaper to polish the edge up.
 
Robs92XJ said:
As long as the stone you have is nice and flat and not clogged, that should work fine for restoring the edge. Course is what you want for that kind of work. Once you've got it back into shape on the stone, I'd follow Obsessed's advice and use sandpaper to polish the edge up.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot guys. I semi-fixed it. My stone isnt flat but i only used the flat parts. and leather stropped it for about 2 hours and now its razor sharp agian. thanks!
 
Glad you are happy with it.

I have an ESEE 5 and can tell you from experience that using wet/dry sandpaper and a mouse pad (or even a leather strop) is a great way to sharpen this very thick-ground blade. This method imparts a convex shape to the bevel and (in my opinion) a knife of this shape really benefits from it.

Next time around, you might consider convexing it a bit.
 
unit said:
Glad you are happy with it.

I have an ESEE 5 and can tell you from experience that using wet/dry sandpaper and a mouse pad (or even a leather strop) is a great way to sharpen this very thick-ground blade. This method imparts a convex shape to the bevel and (in my opinion) a knife of this shape really benefits from it.

Next time around, you might consider convexing it a bit.
Click to expand...

Yes sir, I've found some sandpaper in my garage. Some 320 and 200 something and prolly a 100-ish one. Need to get myself a new sharpening system or stone before i consider convexing
 
I would not use any sandpaper under 400. I used to use the bottom of a mug and it works like magic.... Then I went through my grandfathers stuff and was surprised because I didn't know he was into knives- I found a lanky kit, a spiderco triangle, a diamond stone, a treated strop, a mini Bowie style knife and a Eric frost mora!
I'm getting quite off topic... Your best option really is to get something decent and made FOR sharpening knives :P nowadays sharpening kits like a basic lansky kit isn't all that expensive. Your going to need a stable long term system for keeping that puppy sharp, an sandpaper isn't great at sharpening anyway(nobody flip out that's just my opinion). Also for the chip, check your kitchen stuff to see if you have one of those long steel rods, they are good at taking off a layer.
 
nov3mber said:
I would not use any sandpaper under 400. I used to use the bottom of a mug and it works like magic.... Then I went through my grandfathers stuff and was surprised because I didn't know he was into knives- I found a lanky kit, a spiderco triangle, a diamond stone, a treated strop, a mini Bowie style knife and a Eric frost mora!
I'm getting quite off topic... Your best option really is to get something decent and made FOR sharpening knives :P nowadays sharpening kits like a basic lansky kit isn't all that expensive. Your going to need a stable long term system for keeping that puppy sharp, an sandpaper isn't great at sharpening anyway(nobody flip out that's just my opinion). Also for the chip, check your kitchen stuff to see if you have one of those long steel rods, they are good at taking off a layer.
Click to expand...

I've found a kershaw in my dad's toolbox, and use sharpened it on my cheap stone and made it razor sharp! (only been sharpening for a few days). Do you think the lansky is a good system for a big bulky knife like an esee-5? Or should i just get a Spyderco sharpmaker or Work sharp..I really enjoy free handing but its to much time.
 
bigboy2011 said:
I've found a kershaw in my dad's toolbox, and use sharpened it on my cheap stone and made it razor sharp! (only been sharpening for a few days). Do you think the lansky is a good system for a big bulky knife like an esee-5? Or should i just get a Spyderco sharpmaker or Work sharp..I really enjoy free handing but its to much time.
Click to expand...

Regarding the Lansky, it'll work. One thing you'll need to keep in mind, if you ever do a complete re-bevelling on a big and/or thick blade, it'll take some time. Patience is key. Lots of metal to remove, with the relatively small hones. The total surface area of abrasive on the hones makes a significant difference in speed. Same applies with the Sharpmaker; it's not ideally suited to heavy metal removal anyway, as the ceramic hones are small and not very aggressive in grit. Re-bevelling a big, thick blade would take forever on the Sharpmaker.

For day-to-day maintenance and relatively light touch-ups, either system will be fine. I use the Lansky for rebevelling smaller and medium-sized blades, and it's great for that.

And the Worksharp, being a powered tool, would obviously be faster. But, for the same reason, you really need to be careful you don't over-do it.

As for sandpaper, it's likely going to be my 'go to' sharpening method in the long run. The more acquainted I've become with it, the more I see it'll handle anything I give it. It's my favorite method for maintaining edges especially, and new bevels can be created quickly (LOTs of surface area in a 9" x 11" sheet of it). I respect the opinions of those who might not prefer it, but the capability of it as a sharpening medium isn't lacking, at all. It has some sizeable advantages, in many respects. As with any sharpening method, 99% of it is technique anyway. That comes with repetition and thoughtful practice.
 
Last edited:
Obsessed with Edges said:
Regarding the Lansky, it'll work. One thing you'll need to keep in mind, if you ever do a complete re-bevelling on a big and/or thick blade, it'll take some time. Patience is key. Lots of metal to remove, with the relatively small hones. The total surface area of abrasive on the hones makes a significant difference in speed. Same applies with the Sharpmaker; it's not ideally suited to heavy metal removal anyway, as the ceramic hones are small and not very aggressive in grit. Re-bevelling a big, thick blade would take forever on the Sharpmaker.

For day-to-day maintenance and relatively light touch-ups, either system will be fine. I use the Lansky for rebevelling smaller and medium-sized blades, and it's great for that.

And the Worksharp, being a powered tool, would obviously be faster. But, for the same reason, you really need to be careful you don't over-do it.

As for sandpaper, it's likely going to be my 'go to' sharpening method in the long run. The more acquainted I've become with it, the more I see it'll handle anything I give it. It's my favorite method for maintaining edges especially, and new bevels can be created quickly (LOTs of surface area in a 9" x 11" sheet of it). I respect the opinions of those who might not prefer it, but the capability of it as a sharpening medium isn't lacking, at all. It has some sizeable advantages, in many respects. As with any sharpening method, 99% of it is technique anyway. That comes with repetition and thoughtful practice.
Click to expand...

Very well said, another way to reprofile a knife would be to use a kitchen steel but you would have to be veeeery careful.
 
a kitchen steel to reprofile ? you either have a magic steel or use plastic blades.

more seriously this won't happen, a steel will realign the edge while removing only the slightest amount of material from the blade. you won't reprofile anything with a steel.
 
Hmm.... Many I do have a magic steel.... It's like 100 years old so many they were made different back then. Also it's probly for ceramic so maby it's more rough? Weird. Mine shaves like a beast, takes out nicks in a flash.
 
Now I know! Turns out the knife I had been using my steel on had a bad factory temper so it was soft as gold :P
I knew something was up!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top