After buying and returning a knife from a different company, I'm leaning towards the Esee-5 for a wilderness/survival/hunting/bushcraft/general use knife. I like the glass breaker pommel for the urban jungle, but I don't think it will be conducive to using the technique (I don't know what it's called) for chopping down a tree with which the knife is pounded tip first into the trunk in a circle around the tree. If my description isn't clear, search 'cutting down a tree with a knife' or 'cutting down trees with a Mora' on Youtube. I imagine that the glass breaker would destroy your baton rather quickly. I've been trying to come up with an idea for a removable add on piece that would give the user the option of a flat pommel for this purpose. So far, everything I can imagine seems like it would be far too weak of a design (nothing like having the pommel and the blade tip be all one solid piece). I know this technique isn't the only or even the best way to chop down a tree, but I like having options. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Esee-5 Pommel (glass breaker)
- Thread starter laea7777
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That's interesting. I have never seen someone hammer the blade in tip first. If it were me, I would just hammer on the spine and cut wedges out of the tree. Work your way around it doing that till you can break it off.
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Or you know, get an axe or machete:thumbup:.
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Here's a link to the video:
Cutting down trees with a Mora
To me that doesn't look to be the safest method to cut something. Sticking a knife in a tree, LETTING GO OF IT, then hitting it repeatedly seems to be a recipe for a knife flying out at someone.
And to be honest, a tree that small you could hack straight through with an Esee-5.
Cutting down trees with a Mora
To me that doesn't look to be the safest method to cut something. Sticking a knife in a tree, LETTING GO OF IT, then hitting it repeatedly seems to be a recipe for a knife flying out at someone.
And to be honest, a tree that small you could hack straight through with an Esee-5.
EricV
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That seems like a really bad technique for cutting down a tree, batoning wedges around the ouside is much safer for you and your knife.
But, a small block of aluminium with a slot cut into the base to allow the pommel spike to sit in, seems like it would work well enough.
But, a small block of aluminium with a slot cut into the base to allow the pommel spike to sit in, seems like it would work well enough.
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One more thing. With a knife as thick as the esee5, I'm not sure you'd be hammering it in a tree by the point with a stick any time soon.
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I have a 5 and use it all the time...I really like the knife and find that it chops just fine. If you want to take down a tree, it will chop faster than you can baton with it (at least I can).
Anyway...I post this only to make a couple points.
1. The glass breaker is the least used feature on the knife (for me). I have contemplated grinding it to a smooth curve several times just to get rid of the unnecessary point.
2. I have no idea why anyone would want to hammer on the pommel and drive the tip into anything...perhaps I am alone on this?, but I see no reason to potentially drive my knife into something like a nail that I am then unable to remove....that said, I do not frequently need to chop down trees...I generally can find enough dead fall that works better for my needs (YMMV). The 5 is pretty good for chopping dead fall if you are interested...
Anyway...I post this only to make a couple points.
1. The glass breaker is the least used feature on the knife (for me). I have contemplated grinding it to a smooth curve several times just to get rid of the unnecessary point.
2. I have no idea why anyone would want to hammer on the pommel and drive the tip into anything...perhaps I am alone on this?, but I see no reason to potentially drive my knife into something like a nail that I am then unable to remove....that said, I do not frequently need to chop down trees...I generally can find enough dead fall that works better for my needs (YMMV). The 5 is pretty good for chopping dead fall if you are interested...
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I would think that bashing the handles of a Mora with a baton would be likely to break the handle eventually. It would probably work OK with a full tang knife. I'm not so sure that this would work very well with a knife as thick as an ESEE-5, I don't think it is the technique I would go with.
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Check out the ESEE forum. There is some discussion going on right now about an accessory glass breaker tip for some of the smaller knives. You should mention your idea for an add on for the ESEE-5 to cover the glass breaker.
With this size knife I would imagine that any tree you would try the 'point first' technique on could be dispatched just as easily with typical 'edge first' batoning around the circumference of the tree.
It's a great knife, I say go for it.
With this size knife I would imagine that any tree you would try the 'point first' technique on could be dispatched just as easily with typical 'edge first' batoning around the circumference of the tree.
It's a great knife, I say go for it.
+1 to that
What he said! +1!