ESEE 5 Re-profile. Recommendation?

[Meast58]

Hello,

I'm getting ready to re-profile my ESEE 5. I was wondering what angles you guys might recommend. The original bevel is, from what I understand, 40inclusive. Would I be alright to knock it down to 30inclusive (15dps)? How much strength am I going to sacrifice? I'm using an Edge Pro Apex, BTW.

Also, while we're on the subject, what grit should I finish on? I usually take my knives all the way through the 3,000 grit tapes, can I do the same with 1095? Does 1095 appreciate the higher grits?

It will be used as a "survival"/hiking/bush-crafting knife.

Thanks,

 

[Meast58]

I have been reading around online. It looks like other people have re-profiled to 30inclusive. I'm going to do it. I'll probably lay a micro-bevel on it as well.

 

[Jason B.]

Good luck, they are often very thick behind the edge and factory numbers are white lies. Good to put your mind at ease but about as accurate as a blind sniper.

 

[Meast58]

Good luck, they are often very thick behind the edge and factory numbers are white lies. Good to put your mind at ease but about as accurate as a blind sniper.

I'm working it on the 220 grit, right now. I spent awhile on the 120. For some reason can't get a burr to form on the belly and tip. Haha.

Should I go back to the 120 and form a burr, or should I spend more time using the 220?

 

[retzius]

stay on the 120 until you get a nice burr

 

[Meast58]

stay on the 120 until you get a nice burr

While i'm thinking about it, how long should I spent on each stone to remove the scratches from the stone before?

 

[Jason B.]

While i'm thinking about it, how long should I spent on each stone to remove the scratches from the stone before?

As long as it takes to remove them.

 

[Meast58]

As long as it takes to remove them.

Thanks, that was a huge help!

 

[rutcrazed]

Hello Meast58, I know that Jason B. sounded kinda of snarky, but he was correct. You need to watch the scratch pattern of the stone you are using, then when you change stones watch the edge till you have a new scratch pattern. Make sure you always remove the prior scratch patter before you move to the next if you are looking for that perfect edge.

 

[Spey]

Thanks, that was a huge help!

The"best" answer is many times the simplest (but, not always the most "helpful" as we sometimes fail to understand the simple things).

BTW, my ESSE from the factory had secondary bevels at 17-dps.

 

[Jason B.]

Thanks, that was a huge help!

Yep, didn't mean to sound snarky but it's the truth, so simple but so complicated truth.

Your best practice would be to continually check the edge and make that scratch pattern you are creating at that moment the best it can be. Truth be told, I just guess like most other do, and you don't always get it right. Sometimes I will need to go back a stone or two to remove those stubborn scratches.

I've learned from mirror polishing edges that in the last few minutes on each stone you want to reduce pressure so the abrasive is only lightly grinding the surface. This reduced the possibility of random deep scratches that linger later on as the bevel becomes polished.

 

[Meast58]

Yep, didn't mean to sound snarky but it's the truth, so simple but so complicated truth.

Your best practice would be to continually check the edge and make that scratch pattern you are creating at that moment the best it can be. Truth be told, I just guess like most other do, and you don't always get it right. Sometimes I will need to go back a stone or two to remove those stubborn scratches.

I've learned from mirror polishing edges that in the last few minutes on each stone you want to reduce pressure so the abrasive is only lightly grinding the surface. This reduced the possibility of random deep scratches that linger later on as the bevel becomes polished.

I finished the ESEE 5 that night. I decided to go for 15DPS all the way through the 3,000grit, with an 18DPS micro-bevel, using the 1,000grit. The mirror polish Isn't perfect, there are still some scratches left from the coarser stones. I haven't had the Edge Pro very long, only a month or so, I just need some more experience. I will definitely utilize your advice about using light pressure on the finale stages of the stone.

I wanted to say that I by no means took your comment the wrong way. I was somewhat expecting a response like that, anyway. I thought maybe there was a "trick to the trade". I will make sure to look the edge over before moving to the next stone. Practice makes perfect.

I will be sharpening another ESEE later tonight. I'm going to try my hardest to get the best mirror finish that I can achieve. Wish me luck!

I appreciate the help.

Thanks,

-Meast58

 

[Meast58]

Hello Meast58, I know that Jason B. sounded kinda of snarky, but he was correct. You need to watch the scratch pattern of the stone you are using, then when you change stones watch the edge till you have a new scratch pattern. Make sure you always remove the prior scratch patter before you move to the next if you are looking for that perfect edge.

Thank you. I'm going to try again later. I would love to achieve a perfect edge.

 

[Meast58]

The"best" answer is many times the simplest (but, not always the most "helpful" as we sometimes fail to understand the simple things).

BTW, my ESSE from the factory had secondary bevels at 17-dps.

:thumbup:

 

[calc]

Yep, didn't mean to sound snarky but it's the truth, so simple but so complicated truth.

A lot of sharpening is. It's easy to overthink sometimes.

I will be sharpening another ESEE later tonight. I'm going to try my hardest to get the best mirror finish that I can achieve. Wish me luck!

I think you'll find that 1095 responds well to high levels of polish. At least, it's how I prefer it, especially for the type of cutting I do with it.

 

[Meast58]

A lot of sharpening is. It's easy to overthink sometimes.



I think you'll find that 1095 responds well to high levels of polish. At least, it's how I prefer it, especially for the type of cutting I do with it.

Ok, I will take this one through the 3,000 and spend a little more time on the strop. I'm interested to see how a polished 1095 edge compares to a toothy 1095 edge.

 

[Spey]

Ok, I will take this one through the 3,000 and spend a little more time on the strop. I'm interested to see how a polished 1095 edge compares to a toothy 1095 edge.

Depends on what medium/tasks you will be performing. For working with wood, I am liking polished edge over toothy edge on my ESSE-6. Less resistance when push-cutting is noticeable (given equal edge angles & profiles). I believe it is also easier to see any edge damage that occurs, when testing edge profiles providing greater visual feedback.

 

[calc]

Depends on what medium/tasks you will be performing. For working with wood, I am liking polished edge over toothy edge on my ESSE-6. Less resistance when push-cutting is noticeable (given equal edge angles & profiles).

Exactly my reasoning as well.

I believe it is also easier to see any edge damage that occurs, when testing edge profiles providing greater visual feedback.

This is interesting, I've never looked at it that way.