Esee 5 sharpness

J

Jared Leland

Joined
Apr 3, 2020
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185
I am having a hard time getting my Esee 5 hair shaving sharp. It's definitely sharp. She passed the fingernail test, BUT doesn't always slice paper how i want or pass the hair test all of the way. Is the thickness of this blade what makes it harder to sharpen?
 
You might want to try thinning the edge a little (more acute). "Sharpness" is a tricky thing. A 90 degree angle is also "sharp", in that the apex culminates at a precise point. But it won't slice paper worth crap.

Try lowering your sharpening angle and thin out the edge a bit. And try stropping several times after sharpening to make sure you don't have a little bit of burr on the edge.
 
shane45-1911 said:
You might want to try thinning the edge a little (more acute). "Sharpness" is a tricky thing. A 90 degree angle is also "sharp", in that the apex culminates at a precise point. But it won't slice paper worth crap.

Try lowering your sharpening angle and thin out the edge a bit. And try stropping several times after sharpening to make sure you don't have a little bit of burr on the edge.
Click to expand...
thank you bro! so in other words don't hold it to such a high angle get it a bit more flat to take down some of the edge? i'm using a Falkniven DC3
 
Jared Leland said:
thank you bro! so in other words don't hold it to such a high angle get it a bit more flat to take down some of the edge?
Click to expand...

Absolutely correct.

Note that as you start to do this, you won't be removing ANY material on the edge. You are removing metal from the secondary grind. As you progress more and more, the material you are removing starts moving closer to the edge. Keep removing material until you are actually sharpening the edge, and not just the metal above it.

A Sharpie marker makes it easy to see where you are removing material. Color the entire edge, and start sharpening. You will see where you are sharpening as the marker is worn away.
 
shane45-1911 said:
Absolutely correct.

Note that as you start to do this, you won't be removing ANY material on the edge. You are removing metal from the secondary grind. As you progress more and more, the material you are removing starts moving closer to the edge. Keep removing material until you are actually sharpening the edge, and not just the metal above it.

A Sharpie marker makes it easy to see where you are removing material. Color the entire edge, and start sharpening. You will see where you are sharpening as the marker is worn away.
Click to expand...
thank you bro! i always feel like i'm ruining it when intake it to the stone but as someone else said that DC3 i'm using is super fine so i guess it ain't hurting anything
 
Jared Leland said:
thank you bro! i always feel like i'm ruining it when intake it to the stone but as someone else said that DC3 i'm using is super fine so i guess it ain't hurting anything
Click to expand...

Just remember to try to keep working both sides of the edge relatively equally so you don't end up sharpening too much on one side.

Your DC3 will work, but as Ed indicated - it will take some time. If you have a courser stone, I would use that to remove material until you reach the edge, then switch to a fine/DC3 stone.
 
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shane45-1911 said:
Just remember to try to keep working both sides of the edge relatively evenly so you don't end up sharpening too much on one side.

Your DC3 will work, but as Ed indicated - it will take some time. If you have a courser stone, I would use that to remove material until you reach the edge, then switch to a fine/DC3 stone.
Click to expand...
should i maybe start on the gold colored coarse side?
 
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