Esee Izula, My First Patina

R

RonB

Joined
Apr 25, 2009
Messages
16
I absolutely love my new Izula but, I thought the coating was creating too much drag during food prep. I also have been seriously wanting to strip the black finish since making the Brazilian Cherry scales for it last week. So...many Youtube vids, threads on the topic here...I gave it a try.

I used aircraft stripper to remove the coating. That was surprisingly easy, 30 minutes of set time after spraying, a plastic knife and brass brush took all the coating off. Earlier this week, I etched the ant emblem and the logos with radio shack circuit board etching solution...3 one hour sessions per side, should have done 5 probably as they are visible but not as deep as I would like.

I wet sanded the knife with 600 grit paper and then cleaned with alcohol. I used walnut husk juice for the base patina. I squeezed blackened walnut husk (wearing gloves), dripping the juice over the knife, and hung the knife vertically. I did two coating of the walnut juice, letting it dry completely between coats.
After the second coat dried, I wiped the knife down with an oily rag and lightly scrubbed it with 000 steel wool to even out the finish and smooth. I then cleaned the knife with alcohol.

The next step was striping the blade with French's Mustard, roughly 30 minutes per side. after wiping the blade down with oil, I put the scales back on. I sharpened using a Work Sharp Field Sharpener...( I love this sharpener because I am the worlds worst sharpener. before I bought this tool, anything I have ever tried to sharpen was completely child safe when I was finished..about butter knife sharp.)

Critiques? Suggestions? Im trying to learn and am having a great time!

LxoeLNu.jpg
[/IMG]
 
After I had finished, I found the blade does have a tiny bit of play in the sheath that was not there before stripping the coating. Still plenty secure..just a slightly looser.
 
It looks great, very creative too.:thumbup: If you don't mind, a few comments. I think they make dye from walnut husks. I can see it staining a blade, but don't understand how it could be permanent as it will not penetrate the steel. What I am suggesting is there may not be any type of permanent effect from doing this, however, certainly the acid in mustard will create a fairly deep surface stain. You might think about getting some ferric chloride from Radio Shack, mix with six parts water and submerge the blade for a few minutes. It will leave carbon steel with a nice gray patina.:)
 
Thanks for the tip! I got the walnut juice idea from a Pathfinders Youtube video..and I have 6 feed sacks full of walnuts in the barn. When I etched the ant and logos deeper, I used the radio Shack Ferric Chloride/etching solution so, I have a full bottle less about 1/2 ounce. I will use it a few days and see if it rubs off...I actually have no idea if a forced patina stays on with regular use...I wondered about that but, wasn't too worried as I am an oil fanatic (bottle on my bedroom dresser,in the barn, at work, and an oil saturated cloth in a ziplok bag in my Jeep, and hunting bag. If it comes off, Ill steel wool the rest away and do the ferric chloride as a base coat before the mustard.

Thanks!
Ron
 
I made a gallon of black walnut husk stain with an old wine press I use it for staining wood and some times leather never tried it on metal though.This was about 15 years ago I think I put about 8 oz acetone in with it as a preservative ( acetone is closely related to formaldehyde ) and I have had no spoilage problem, but if I remember correctly walnut is fairly anti - bacterial to begin with due high tonic acid levels similar to white oak.
 
As you probably already know, be sure to wear rubber gloves when working with walnut husks, unless you want to be dyed dark brown.
 
I did wear gloves when working with the fresh walnut juice. Today, I made a set of black walnut scales for the Izula. That wood has been in my barn for about 12 years...I didn't realize the wood itself would stain my fingers..but it did. I'll post a pic of it tomorrow or the next day. Right now the first coat of tung oil is drying.

Thanks,
Ron
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top