Esee Junglas - maximizing edge geometry for chopping

[REK Knives]

So here's my Esee Junglas. After deciding I wanted better performance out of it I decided to push it to the extreme... Reprofiled to 10 dps with a 20 dps microbevel applied with the Wicked Edge. Yes, it's extreme but I wanted to see what it could handle and still provide optimum performance.

I thought I was good... Went out on a camping trip and chopped and batoned up a bunch of all types of wood, even hard woods. No damage, still sharp. But the wood was all wet, not seasoned.

The other day I went to chop up some seasoned hickory (very hard) for my ugly drum smoker (pulled pork... mmmmm ) and it held up for a bit but then something sounded different about the cut... Yeah, this is what happened - secondary edge blow out/fracture. Not really a big deal though, I just now have to fine tune it to where I want it with a steeper final edge angle and I will probably leave my relief bevel at 10 dps.

I will update here as I maximize and balance the edge performance/durability. Keep in mind, Esee uses 1095 at around 56-57 hrc, BUT they do have an excellent heat treat from what I have found.

 

[Cynic2701]

Cool. That makes me feel less crazy for taking pocket knives down to 10 DPS bevel and a 15 DPS microbevel on pocket knives.

 

[wiredbeans]

Josh were you axing it into the wood when the bevel blew out?

 

[Jason B.]

Even though you have a 20 degree inclusive primary bevel it still has sharp shoulders which cause wedging in the wood. If you want to stick with the wicked edge then consider a 3 angle bevel, 10, 14, 18 dps with a layered coarse, medium, fine progression with the angle changes. At this point trying to increase the primary bevel angle to improve toughness will only increase wedging and while you might find balance in the steel the potential cutting abality will been reduced.

what is your final edge finish?

 

[REK Knives]

Josh were you axing it into the wood when the bevel blew out?

Nope... just chopping

Even though you have a 20 degree inclusive primary bevel it still has sharp shoulders which cause wedging in the wood. If you want to stick with the wicked edge then consider a 3 angle bevel, 10, 14, 18 dps with a layered coarse, medium, fine progression with the angle changes. At this point trying to increase the primary bevel angle to improve toughness will only increase wedging and while you might find balance in the steel the potential cutting abality will been reduced.

what is your final edge finish?

Jason,

Well right now I have it at a straight 10 degree bevel w/ a 20 dps micro bevel ( <.001" barely visible). If I put a 10, 14, 18, then 20 I would basically be convexing the edge with an arc between 10 and 20 degrees. This will have more metal behind the edge - a good thing - but it would then wedge more than if I put a straight 15 dps final bevel at say .010" thick: at least that's the way it seems to me I may be wrong. I want minimal steel behind the edge for it to have enough toughness yet still do the job on the hardest seasoned wood.

I hope that makes sense lol. I may end up convexing it as you say but I will probably try it in stages to determine what works best.