Esee knives and water

J

JustinP

Joined
Feb 11, 2015
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83
Hey guys. I'm planning on taking a 5 or 6 night kayaking trip in the near future and I'm wondering if it's safe to take my Esee 4 and my Izula out on the water. Most likely they'll get wet and I've heard things about needing a stainless blade for a water knife. Should I be worrying about rust with the esees? If I dry them off they'll be fine right? Thanks
 
You will be fine. Just oil after heavy use if you are worried or coat the edge and Lazer engraving in beeswax or something similar. As long as you don't leave it wet in the sheath for extended periods, it won't be a problem. Plus, any light patina or rust spots come right off with a quick stropping.
 
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O, thought I should add that I also have a coated Esee 4 and carry it camping/hiking/fishing all the time, even in the rain, the boat, hiking through the wet bush, exc. I dry it off and oil it occasionally(after it gets wet or after heavy use) and have never got more then a light spot of patina on the cutting edge.
 
I use a self made nessmuk blade made out of 1095 every deer season. It handles all the fieldwork and butchering so it gets wet. I simply clean and coat the metal with a light coat of mineral oil and store it out of the sheath. No problems with rust at all.
 
Get some of your wife's clear nail polish and put it over the esse logo, it will seal it and keep the blade from rusting there. Heck you can even put it over the edge as it will quickly wear through if you start using it.
 
You do know that all ESEE knife designs are put through their paces in the Amazon River basin, right? Cosmetic surface rust on carbon blades is a highly exaggerated "problem."
 
Here is a quick tip. Even if you wipe a wet carbon steel knife dry it will still oxidize. After you wipe it take some of the dry ash from your fire and rub your blade with it. This will absorb any microscopic moisture left on the blade and protect the blade.
 
Just don't put the blade away wet. Thats most of the battle.

If they've been stripped, I'd force a patina before the trip (haven't had rust on a patina'd knife yet, only on cutting edges).

The term "water knife" IMO usually means its a dedicated near/in water knife for extended periods of time. Like... a dive knife, or a bait knife or similar. For most other things carbon steels do just fine if you take any thought of care.

Have fun on the trip :).
 
Shaving sharp, Not to start a huge debate, because I don't doubt that what you are saying is true. However wood ash is slightly alkaline and can be caustic. So I wouldn't leave a lot stuck to the blade if I could help it. Not sure if it would even matter, but its a thought that crossed my mind.

Fresh water is nothing to worry about, I don't get that excited about drying my knives off, better to keep them secured than laying around to dry. The ESEE plastic sheaths breath and drain well enough I think. I use mine around salt water, and so I'm pretty careful to rinse them well everyday, as the salt will put rust on almost anything given enough time, but its the same rinse that the rods and reels get every night, so its not like I treat the knives special somehow. You might get some staining, or some spotting, but you should be safe from deep corrosion over that time, especially if the knives get used. I pretty well never oil the blades either.
 
Monofletch said:
No..just the edge. You don't think about salt water when you live in the Midwest. It was my fault. I was cutting bait, fish, and stuff under water. I'm an idiot.
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I guess it can happen to a plain carbon steel. How bad was it?
 
I have noticed that my Izulas edge turns brown after it's been in the sheath for a while. It's not rust. At least it doesn't look like rust. It comes right off after a few passes on my little diamond stone. Is that a normal thing? Haha
 
gadgetgeek said:
Shaving sharp, Not to start a huge debate, because I don't doubt that what you are saying is true. However wood ash is slightly alkaline and can be caustic. So I wouldn't leave a lot stuck to the blade if I could help it. Not sure if it would even matter, but its a thought that crossed my mind......
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Actually ash, especially hardwood ash, is an ultra-fine, low abrasive polishing agent and should in no way harm a blade. I have even loaded jury-rigged strops with it in the wild. If there happens to be some "alkaline" effect it can be avoided by simply polishing the blade down well when removing the ash. I have actually introduced slight amounts of pure ash to the interior of leather sheaths in the past as it gives a long term polishing effect to often-used knives, keeping blades rust free. It works best dry.

I nearly mirrored a portion of a plain satin hunting blade using pure ash by simply polishing a spot with a cotton cloth around a campfire over several evenings of a trip just to see what it would do.

OP--you should be OK if you keep the blade dry after use. If you are worried about it apply a coat or two of car wax before the trip if it's a naked blade. Clear boot polish will also work in a pinch. if you're really in a jam just grab one of your kids Crayons as you go out the door.

If you want to oil the knife along the way just rub it down once in a while with oil (not sweat) from the bridge of your nose...just on the edge if it's a coated blade. Or, if you're really paranoid about it just take a cheap block of ski wax along and rub it down when you start worrying about it. Get cheap ski wax because it can also be used as fire starter.

If you're going to be doing a lot of water activity I would look at purchasing a good dive knife. When I'm on or in water my old Tekna dive knife is usually on my belt or flotation rig even though I have other knives along too dry-packed.

And....anything brown on your blade that wasn't something you ate or won't clean right off is going to be rust. A little steel wool and you'll be fine. Don't over-worry fine rust on a carbon blade. :)
 
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