Etch-o-matic question

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I have not had good success with it myself but others like it. It is not worth the money and there are other ones that are less then half the price. I have monkeyed with it since last summer and decided to get a metal stamp from H Evers.

I believe Darren Ellis caries an etching unit that is less then half the price. I will even go out on limb and say he will offer better tech support then Martronics does.
 
hard to tell.does that include the "machine" itself? You wont have stincels or the fluid to mark with but someone may know more :)

PS I made my own and it works GREAT!
 
here is what my radioshake made one does.....
agedbrushed.jpg


Some think its a stamp but its an etch.
 
Martronics has a complete kit that includes the stencil film, light box and developer that cost's around $250. The unit you linked to is just the etching unit, you will still need to have the stencils made or get the stencil kit to. For another $25 you can get a metal stamp. I would gladly unload my stencil kit and etcher for that much. I am completely un-impressed with it and 9 out of 10 etches had to be buffed out and re-done.

My stencils were not developing correctly so I called Martronics and they told me to double the developing time. They had not got around to updating the instructions and I had wasted an entire sheet of stencil thinking I was doing something wrong.

In all fairness I do know of a couple knife makers that really like that unit.

IMHO:thumbdn: :thumbdn:
 
B Finnigan said:
My stencils were not developing correctly so I called Martronics and they told me to double the developing time.
IMHO:thumbdn: :thumbdn:

Go figure. I'm getting better stencil life by halving the time. :D :thumbup:

Different strokes I guess.

Rob!
 
I believe that those units cost about $1200 new. I have one and it works great. It's more machine than I really need, but I got it for about $150.oo
 
Guys,

what features will really help you avoid problems with etching that seems to plague a lot of people?
 
I think that only experience (or luck) will help you avoid problems when etching logos. As for the machine, I would suggest variable power so that you can adjust the voltage and avoid burning up your stencils. Also, the ability to easily switch from AC to DC is helpful. DC power removes metal, and AC power produces a black mark. So if you can etch deeply in DC, then readily switch to AC to make the mark black, you can save some time. Personally, I am still struggling with this procedure. After I get my dark mark I clean the blade with the recommended cleaning solution. My blades don't rust, but annoyingly the fluid invariably removes the dark coloring. I have taken to carefully applying one of the instant bluing solutions to my mark. I am thinking about trying the engravers enamel but it's kind of expensive.

As, or more important, than having a decent machine is having good stencils and using the proper etching solution. They make all kinds of solutions for all kinds of metal. They are material specific (or so they claim). I have had stencils made by Marking Methods and they work well. Unfortunately, from what I've read here recently, MM isn't too keen on helping knifemakers these days. There are plenty of other places to get stencils though. I was finally able to pick up one of Etch-o-matics stencil making kits on ebay, so now I just make my own. They have worked pretty well so far.
 
For those of you still looking to buy an etching machine, there are a couple of decent ones on eBay right now. At the moment the prices are good, but that can always change. Marking Methods Model 300, and Lectroetch Model 6A.

If you keep an eye out on eBay you can find some nice units at great prices. Look for ones where the seller doesn't know what it it and/or has posted it in an unlikely catagory. I just recieved a Letcroetch Model 10A that the seller listed under "Test Equipment". I bought it for a whopping bid of $1.04 + $13.12 shipping. It was listed as "untested", but for that price I was willing to take a chance. I just fired it up and it works great.

v-10a.JPG

Good deals can still be found on eBay -if you are watchful and patient. (Sorry, it's not for sale at this time.) :)
 
Ok guys,
I'm building a new anodizer to replace one I'm not happy with.
It'll be variable voltage naturally, and switchable between AC and DC.

Figured I'd make one unit I can etch, and anodize with.

I'm struggling trying to find out what voltages work well for etching.

Anyone got any ideas?

S30, 154cm, ats-34, O1
 
I've got one of those kits
and it's Ok i guess,comes with the etcher,a sample pack of stencils,etching solution and dilutant ,i've use it a few times and found it takes a bit of practice to get it right
(if your gonna buy it,get an additional package of stencils and grab some scrap pieces of metal and PRACTICE AND EXPERIMENT before using it on your blades) I've been tempted to feed mine to the grinder a few times
 
Use the etch or matic many years ago but had mixed results, and unsatisfactory. Then I chose to use Electro Chem "Personalizer Plus", with whom I have very good results and always the same.
 
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