Etching maker's mark = beating head on wall

DaveMartell

DaveMartell

Joined
Apr 22, 2010
Messages
235
OK I started out doing medium to low quality on my mark, then within 2 more knives I had a real nice crisp deep dark mark and now I'm down to below low on the quality again and I'm lost as to a reason why. I can get a deep mark but it's neither crisp nor black or if it goes black the color washes right out as if it's temporary.

I've tried new stencils, new little cotton cover thingy, and even tried the other etchant solution just for the hell of it.

The only thing left to look at is the carbon head and hence my post, I'm wondering if anyone has seen the head be a problem and is there maintenance that needs to be done to this?

I'm at a loss and need some help here.

Dave


PS - I'm using the Personalizer Plus
 
A lot has to do with consistency of wetting. Too much solution is a common problem, and it will erode the edges of your etch and give you a halo. If you're getting an etch, then the machine is working. Does the personalizer have an AC setting? If so are you using DC to etch and AC to darken? Even on an AC setting, the darkened portion of the etch isn't really all that durable. A deep etch helps protect it a bit, but it can easily be faded by sanding or buffing. If sanding after the etch, make sure to use a hard backing.

I switched to Q-tips to do the etch with simple salt water for fluid. It just gives me more control. I dip the Q-tip in the solution several times, and then gently press off the excess on a towel, leaving the tip damp, but not wet. Then I systematically cover the entire stencil using brief "touches" of a second or less several times in the same area and then moving around to get uniform coverage. I do this the same for DC and AC.

To remove any halo, I first neutralize the blade, then make a few finishing passes on my final paper grit against a hard surface. I actually secure the paper down with the paper over a hard edge, then draw the knife over it.

--nathan

--nathan
 
Making sure that the stencil is firmly in place and everything is dry before starting helps alot. As above, the pad shoudl be just damp. I do my etches on setting #3 and do a five count and lift 15 times, on the mark setting I do a five count 9 times. Also when you take the stencil off, let everything dry on the etch. I have wiped off the black on a few etches before I realized this. Finally when it is dry, neutralize and sand over it with whatever your last grit of sandpaper you used. My etch looks cloudy until I sand a little bit, often at 2000 grit.
 
I etch my mark just on the etch setting, 5 full seconds for 5 repetitions and then go over it with a scotchbrite belt to get rid of any hazing etc. It looks more like a stamp this way.

I used to just use the mark setting for the same time formula. It left a really nice black mark, but faded pretty quick.

Never had any luck using both settings together, so I'm with you brother.
 
I got a message from a maker who thinks maybe the carbon head has build up on it and guess what it does. I'm going to clean it and test again.

The thing is that I was getting really nice etches and now crap so something happened.
 
Check the small screws, that hold the black and red wires to the head and make sure they are tight. I have had them both loosen and corrode over time resulting in a weak current.

Fred
 
Get a voltmeter out and check the current. Also I etch for 10 seconds x 6 times and repeat the same for the marking. Watch the amount of etchant you use. I always dab it on a paper towel to take off excess. You dotn want that much really.
 
hey Dave,

I hit my head with sandpaper, just a swipe or two, every three or four etches. Seems to help on my stuff.

Greg Shahan
 
With the personalizer plus, Pad dabbed to make sure too much etchant is not on it, stencil taped in place
I start with about 3 on the scale slowly working up to 4, maybe 5 sec total contact time. I do this about 4 times and at least the last 2 flip it to mark for a few seconds before picking up the carbon pad. One clean swipe with fresh 600 grit
SC and they come out very clean and very dark down in the etch.
Ken.
 
I had some problems learning to etch cleanly, mostly it was due to not taping the stencil down flat/tight enough. The edges tended to blur, or have an over all ragged appearance. I now use Scotch "magic" tape (at Ernie Grospitch's recommendation) and make sure that sucker is taped down flat and clean.

Ernie also mentioned to tape down with "double slap pressure if you can."

Hope it helps.
 
Might also want to think about a thin black epoxy to "fill" the etch. Wipe it off with a damp acetone rag afterwards, and final sand. Shouldn't have any issues with it coming out after it dries.
 
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