Etching makers mark

B

BC76

Joined
Jan 14, 2022
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I have recently etched a makers mark with stencil from Erniesknives.com. I used a 12v power supply and salt water. Around the etch it left a little bit of residue almost like a smoke. I did this on a knife that i use in my fishing bag so it isnt a real big deal on this one but I want to do this on a knife I made for a guy and it has been sanded to 2500 and buffed already. Any ideas??
 
I use both AC and DC. One removes material, the other darkens.
That way the black is deeper then the surface. Lightly going over the etch with some sandpaper gives a clear result
 
I use a 3m polishing sheet to remove the haze. Simply lay the sheet down on a flat surface and then slide the blade on the sheet to remove haze and clean up ricasso
 
BC76 said:
I have recently etched a makers mark with stencil from Erniesknives.com. I used a 12v power supply and salt water. Around the etch it left a little bit of residue almost like a smoke. I did this on a knife that i use in my fishing bag so it isnt a real big deal on this one but I want to do this on a knife I made for a guy and it has been sanded to 2500 and buffed already. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Attached are a couple pictures so you can see the problem.
AVigil said:
I use a 3m polishing sheet to remove the haze. Simply lay the sheet down on a flat surface and then slide the blade on the sheet to remove haze and clean up ricasso
Click to expand...
attached are a couple of pics. The only thing I know I forgot to do was clean the stencil before I started.
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zw3MVfu.jpg
 
It looks like you buffed the blade.

Take it back to the buffer and buff out that shadow
 
Probably, but the black looks spotting anyways.
 
BC76 said:
Everything I have read says the buffer will pull the black out of the etch, is this true?
Click to expand...

It always does when I buff after etching. I etch deep and blacken like that too.

Did you tape around the stencil before you etched? It looks like the solution got under the stencil and that's what leaves that shadow look. Try sealing around your stencil better. I use black electricians' tape.

20220425_164443.jpg
 
Too much liquid, too much salt, maybe too much amperage. Try commercial electrolyte.

Many engravers backfill their background when complete with Rustoleum Flat Black. Fill with a toothpick, wipe off with thumb or gloved thumb. Works great on etched logos, too.
 
fitzo said:
Too much liquid, too much salt, maybe too much amperage. Try commercial electrolyte.

Many engravers backfill their background when complete with Rustoleum Flat Black. Fill with a toothpick, wipe off with thumb or gloved thumb. Works great on etched logos, too.
Click to expand...

I second this. Try a deep etching commercial electrolyte.

I have yet to try the flat black paint but may give it a shot. My etches are sometimes too light.
 
I normally spray my stencils and blade with some Windex before etching, which seems to cut down on the haze a little bit, and then I hit it on the buffer to get any remaining haze removed.
I did notice that my etches were more consistent with a commercial electrolyte. I also notice that my "commercial" electrolyte smells just just acetic acid (aka, vinegar). I imagine it probably has a little bit of salt or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) in it as well. If you have some distilled white vinegar laying around, pour some in a cup, add a teaspoon or two of baking soda or salt, and maybe cut it with a bit of distilled water if it's too strong.
 
I have been having same problem with a haze/cloud around my mark. Can't figure out how to stop it. I am using an old etch-o-matic and some electrolyte from tustech. They told me to wash it off but that only works if I use sandpaper as a wash cloth. I appreciate any help, thanks.
 
Try using less electrolyte, your felt pad should be just barely damp, not soaked.

I've also heard of folks spraying Windex under their stencil to cut down on clouding, but I've never done that.

Also, I generally put my mark on before my finish sanding, so I don't have to worry about the cloudiness. Just etch on dc deep enough that a little sanding is part of your process.
 
A.McPherson said:
Try using less electrolyte, your felt pad should be just barely damp, not soaked.

I've also heard of folks spraying Windex under their stencil to cut down on clouding, but I've never done that.

Also, I generally put my mark on before my finish sanding, so I don't have to worry about the cloudiness. Just etch on dc deep enough that a little sanding is part of your process.
Click to expand...
I also apply my mark after 600grit, then final clean up on the blade after etching to make sure its sharp at the edges of the mark. I'm etching at higher voltage lower amp (20V and about 0.5-1 amps. I know there's a lot of people who discuss higher voltage for etching produces hydrogen at cathode, oxy at anode and potential for spark ignition , but found I can then get a deep etch quickly which helps with keeping any solution creeping under the stencil. Plus at the amount I'm likely generating is so minimal, it isn't like I'm etching full plates. Plus I like hearing the sizzle. ;)
 
As the others have said:
1) Less electrolyte on the pad. I blot mine on a folded paper towel. The felt should only be damp, not wet.
2) Tape down the stencil with electrical tape. This keeps excess electrolyte from getting under the edges.
3) Use DC to etch the mark and then AC to blacken it. Also, use just the right amount of voltage. It takes some experimentation to get the right "cut".

4) Once the mark is done. take a piece of 3-M polishing paper that matches the finish of the blade (it comes in a pack from 400 girt to 8000 grit) and wrap it on a block of hardwood. Give the blade a spritz of Windex and make clean one direction strokes the length of the blade (assuming that was the direction of the hand sanding). The haze will wipe away.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
As the others have said:
1) Less electrolyte on the pad. I blot mine on a folded paper towel. The felt should only be damp, not wet.
2) Tape down the stencil with electrical tape. This keeps excess electrolyte from getting under the edges.
3) Use DC to etch the mark and then AC to blacken it. Also, use just the right amount of voltage. It takes some experimentation to get the right "cut".

4) Once the mark is done. take a piece of 3-M polishing paper that matches the finish of the blade (it comes in a pack from 400 girt to 8000 grit) and wrap it on a block of hardwood. Give the blade a spritz of Windex and make clean one direction strokes the length of the blade (assuming that was the direction of the hand sanding). The haze will wipe away.
Click to expand...
I really Needed this topic posted early Last week....
I did my first etching on my (new to me machine) and did almost all of the mistakes.......

and then Lots of rework.... :/
haha
 
When I was getting my stuff sorted out with Patricia at IMG, she told me the #1 mistake most guys make is they use way too much electrolyte. Like mentioned above, your pad should be just damp, not wet...like barely moist.....which is a word I love! 🤣
 
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