etching tests

loneronin · Jun 14, 2008

well, i spent some time to test my etching kit and these are the results.

first of all let me introduce you my kit:

a - the transformer (I tested 5 of them)
b - 3 office clip (1 medium and 2 small size)
c - a scrap wire
d - a small electrolyte container to wet the pad
e - a piece of wood to support the pad
f - the pad (toilet paper)
g - the electrolyte (I tested some combinations)
h - stencils/scotch to mask the blade

the pad assembled:

I used a piece of stainless stell I found in the scrap pile as blade, with some sand paper I make it even and I clean it with alcohol. and these are the results I obtained with the following combinations:

1 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; electrolyte: warm water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 25 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

2 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; electrolyte: distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 25 min; then I inverted the poles: pole + to the pad, pole to the blade; etching time: 12 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

3 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; electrolyte: vinegar, lemon juice and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 25 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

4 - output: DC, 20V, 3,25amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 12 min; some stencil/mask damage, pad a little carbonized

5 - output: AC, 12V, 1,00amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 12 min; some stencil/mask damage, pad a little carbonized

6 - output: DC, 5,7V, 0,80amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 15 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

7 - output: DC, 12V, 1,25amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 15 min; some stencil/mask damage, pad carbonized

8 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 15 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

9 - output: DC, 20V, 3,25amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad; etching time: 6,5 min; stencil/mask damage, pad carbonized

I would like to make other tests but my conclusion, not surprisingly, are:

use 5V, 2,5amp DC output (the higher the V the higher the temperature)
to get a deep etching use quite long etching-time
to get a black etching use an AC output
press your stencil/mask to let them paste well to your blade to avoid deburrings
water and salt is enough for a deep and sharp mark-etching

Patrickknives · Jun 16, 2008

Sweet

loneronin · Jun 17, 2008

I got some good ads and probably this w-e I'll post new experiments

stay tuned!!!!

Omega Leather Works · Jun 17, 2008

Very, very interesting! Im new to this. When you write "balde" are you meaning "blade"? Im not trying to make fun and maybe Im just stupid Im not quite sure.

Either way thanks for this and Im subscribing to see further posts/results.

loneronin · Jun 17, 2008

Strigamort said:
Very, very interesting! Im new to this. When you write "balde" are you meaning "blade"? Im not trying to make fun and maybe Im just stupid Im not quite sure. Either way thanks for this and Im subscribing to see further posts/results.

Yeah...balde is blade

I corrected it

loneronin · Jun 24, 2008

... some other test results.

I follwed some ads like use a real felt and not toilet paper on the pad, put a piece of stainless steel plate under the felt, etche small areas and try shorter etching time with higher voltage.

1 - 9 - see post #1 of this thread

10 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 30 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

11 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 10 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

12 - output: DC, 5V, 2,40amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 5 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

13 - output: DC, 20V, 3,25amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 5 min; no stencil/mask/pad damage

14 - output: DC, 20V, 3,25amp; sulfuric acid (from an old car battery); pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 3/4 sec on - 5 sec off 10 times; no stencil/mask/pad damage

15 - output: DC, 20V, 3,25amp; distilled water and salt; pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt); etching time: 3/4 sec on - 5 sec off for 5 min; stencil/mask/pad damaged

loneronin · Jul 5, 2008

here it is my first "real" etching on the blade of a steak-knife.

I used the DC output to etch deep: 5V, 2,40amp, water and salt as electrolyte, pole + to the blade, pole - to the pad (felt over a stainless steel plate) for 10 min, then I changed the transformer to blacken the etch AC, 12V, 1,00amp, same electrolyte for 2 min.
I like the result but next time I'll etch in AC with longer rests to let the blade and the stencil better cool down as I noticed some stencil damage and some little black scrubs also over the letters.
moreover on my knives I'll use smaller font, maybe 3mm (these are 5mm)

TalismaaKnives · Nov 14, 2011

how did you make the stencil?

loneronin · Nov 21, 2011

the stencil is made by those letters in the background of the last picture. you put the plastic sheet over the knife, with a ball point pen you scratch the plastic sheet and the letter is glued to the steel. I did it three time with the letters Z O T. then I use a tape to make the rectangular marsk and I'm done. I etch it, pull the tape away and use a fine steel sponge to clean the letters. that's all. the problem is that those plastic sheet with the letters of different fonts are really hard to find here in Italy...