Etching

M

MJORG

Joined
Jan 10, 1999
Messages
8
When is it best to etch? I am using a Personalizer Plus for etching. Etch as last step or somewhere in the process? Again I make stock removal knives with pinned bolsters.
Man questions. I thank all you for the information that I have already gained from the forum>
 
I use Nitric acid.Melt some wax and scribe it .Leave it too long and it blurs under the wax.

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I leave the etching until after the blade is complete and has had it's final sharpening and inspection just in case there is something that needs touch up. Don't want to scuff the etching.

The only exception is if you are bead blasting the blade then etch before blasting, the etch will show through very well.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
I am also interested in getting an etching machine but am wondering what type of etching works best. DC Current? UV solution? Acid?

There was a DC Current etching post a couple of days ago... it looked pretty good and I probably have a DC transformer laying around that would work. What else is needed and how do the photo masks work?

Thanks in advance for any information.

Steve
 
DC current etches deepest but leaves the mark very dull grey, AC etching darkens the mark more.

I etch at 6 or 8 volts AC.

The silk screen mask is prepared emulsion side down by my supplier.

I have no idea what the electrolyte I purchase is made of, I suspect copper sulphate and sodium chloride by the colour and residue nature but don't quote me on that.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
Steve,
You can use salt water and a DC current(6 volt battery charger) for etching. The salt water does not etch as clean as a etching solution bought for a knife makers supply house. As for the mask or resit you can use wax. I did not like the way my lettering came out using wax so I started using KTFR Kodak Thin Film Resit. With the KTFR I can make my stensils on my computer using Corel Draw and clear transparency film in my laser printer.
Ray
 
Ray,

Could you go into a bit more detail on how you use your computer to create your stencils. Specifically, what is KTFR Kodak Thin Film Resist and what you do to the clear transparency film after you print it.

Etching is black magic to me but I'll get it with a little education.

Thanks

 
George and Ray,

Thanks for the answers. Do either of you know what current your transformers are running? 6-8 volts is no problem but I imagine the amount of current would determine how crisp the etch is made. The voltage would regulate how deep. I may just be completely whacked.

More current would produce faster etches but may increase the "fuzzies" around the edges. I would guess about 1 amp would be sufficient. BTW: I'm an electrical engineer and am laying the foundation for the "ultimate?" etching machine.

Thanks again,

Steve
 
Steve,
I am using a variable DC voltage supply set on 5.5 volts, I measured 6 amps. I etch between 10 and 15 minutes. I get a deep etch and still have good resolution on the letters. If I try to etch on ten volts(the amperage also goes up) the resit will start to burn off. If you have any ideals on how the voltage and the amperage determine the quaility of the etching I would like to hear more about it. Specifically on how I could contol(lower) the amperage when I turn up the voltage.

Sharpsteel,
KTFR is a photoresist or UV (black light) sensative solution that is applied like paint. You have to let it dry and bake it for 20 minutes at 176 degrees F. Let the steel cool and lay the transparency on top of the photoresist. Put this under a black light for 20 minutes to expose the photoresist. Develope the exposed photoresist for 2 minutes and wash off with warm water. Post bake for 10 minutes at 248 degees F. Now you can etch. After etching clean off the resist with the developer.
KYFR is available from P.C.&E. phone # 610-296-8585.
 
Ray,

I am now gathering a large quantity of transformers and in the next week or two will experiment with both AC and DC etching. I am suprised at the amount of current you are using and the time it is taking to etch. Does the current increase with the voltage when you go to 10 volts? If you are using DC and the current doesn't change then your etch at 10 volts is roughly twice the power. (power = voltage * current)

Steve
 
Ray,

In re-reading you message there are variable resistors that can reduce the current. You could tie in series a 25-75 watt rated 2-5 ohm resistor. This would reduce the current to the etching.

The benifit of the variable resistor is that it can be turned to ~0 ohms if needed. I imagine Radio Shack carries both types.

I'll post results later.

Steve
 
Steve,
Thanks for the suggestion on using a variable resistor. I will let you know how the variable resistor works. The reason I etch so long is to get a really deep etch. You are not going to buff or grind it off.
 
10 to 15 MINUTES seems incredibly long for etching. I etch my name in 10 to 12 SECONDS.
I have never measured the amperage but with the lack of heat developed I don't expect it to be more than a few amps..

I have experienced stencil damage in the 10 to 12 volt range so I never go over 8 volts
anymore.

The information on the Kodak resist is invaluable. I have been looking for a method to personalize knives for a special group of customers, the professional chefs.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
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