Etching?

Joined
Oct 29, 2008
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I've heard folks talk about etching before and was wondering:

1) How is it done?
2) What does an etched blade look like? (pics would be appreciated)
3) What are the advantages/disadvantages besides cosmetic stuff?
 
I've heard folks talk about etching before and was wondering:

1) How is it done?
2) What does an etched blade look like? (pics would be appreciated)
3) What are the advantages/disadvantages besides cosmetic stuff?

Various ways,with various mild etchants,with various results. I've heard of using Vinegar, Lemon juice, and printed circuit board etchant, Most here at this forum ,IIRC, etch the blades to check the heat treat, in other words to see if there is a Hamon and that it is correctly done on the blade. Others use etchants on the whole of the blade to hopefully produce a rust inhibiting patina. Some wipe it on the blade, some leave the blade soaking in it for a period of time.

I have no pic's....but i'm pretty sure if you go back far enough, theres a thread or some pic's here somewhere.

Having never done it, I'll haveta wait with you and see if someone with experience in doing this ,chimes in.
 
I've heard folks talk about etching before and was wondering:

1) How is it done?
2) What does an etched blade look like? (pics would be appreciated)
3) What are the advantages/disadvantages besides cosmetic stuff?

As Karda said, it shows any patterns in the steel from either differential hardening, or from forge welding different steels together. No advantage to doing it, it's just a "window into the soul of the blade";)

Here's something I wrote up a while back.

I am not an expert, but this is what I have done. Please understand that there are as many methods to etch blades as there are people that do it. Do a search on etching and read what others have to say. Dave Rishar posted an excellent method.

If the blade is highly polished, I've found it's good to "open the pores" of the metal by sanding with some very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper, at least 1000 grit. Use Windex, or any brand window cleaner with ammonia to lubricate the sandpaper, and keep it from loading up. You can also use a fine schtchbrite pad.

1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can.
2. Cut a lemon, lime or other acidic fruit, and rub on the blade. Rub one side, then the other. Repeat until the pattern develops to your liking.
3. Rinse the blade in cold water.
4. Neutralize the acid by rubbing the blade with a thick mixture of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water, or with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia.
5. Rinse the blade in cold water.
6. Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust.

An alternative is to use ferric chloride. This is what I use. It works quicker and sometimes brings the pattern out better, but is potentially more dangerous to the blade. It is available from Radio Shack as “Printed Circuit Board Etchant”.

1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can.
2. Mix one part Ferric Chloride, available in the US from Radio Shack as Printed circuit board etchant, with 3 or 4 parts distilled water.
3. Using rubber gloves saturate a rag or paper towel with the solution and rub it onto the blade. Put it on with a fully saturated rag, and wipe it on evenly. Do one side then the other, doing your best to cover the full side of the blade in one pass. Don’t let the solution run down into the grip. I use a plastic trough that is used to wet wallpaper that I bought at the local home improvements store to catch the drips.
4. When satisfied with the pattern, rinse with cold water.
5. Rub the blade with a rag or paper towel saturated with vinegar. I’ve read that this helps to stop the ferric chloride reaction.
6. Rinse with cold water.
7 Neutralize the acid by rubbing the blade with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia.
8. Rinse with cold water.
9 Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust.​

Here's an antique khukuri that has been etched.
fruitwoodblade.jpg

fruitwoodoverall.jpg


Here's a Philippine gunong that amazed me when etched. The most beautiful "horse tooth" pattern I've ever seen. The knife was a gift from a very good friend.:thumbup:

Punal9-out.jpg

Punal9-close.jpg


That's why I etch.:)

When you etch an HI blade, you see what portion of the blade has been hardened.

Steve
 
Wonder how ole Ferrous is these days?

Very talented man. Can still picture the "runes" he etched.

:)


An alternative is to use ferric chloride. This is what I use. It works quicker and sometimes brings the pattern out better, but is potentially more dangerous to the blade. It is available from Radio Shack as “Printed Circuit Board Etchant”.

1. Use acetone or denatured alcohol to degrease the blade. Both are flammable, so use good ventilation and follow the safety instructions on the can.
2. Mix one part Ferric Chloride, available in the US from Radio Shack as Printed circuit board etchant, with 3 or 4 parts distilled water.
3. Using rubber gloves saturate a rag or paper towel with the solution and rub it onto the blade. Put it on with a fully saturated rag, and wipe it on evenly. Do one side then the other, doing your best to cover the full side of the blade in one pass. Don’t let the solution run down into the grip. I use a plastic trough that is used to wet wallpaper that I bought at the local home improvements store to catch the drips.
4. When satisfied with the pattern, rinse with cold water.
5. Rub the blade with a rag or paper towel saturated with vinegar. I’ve read that this helps to stop the ferric chloride reaction.
6. Rinse with cold water.
7 Neutralize the acid by rubbing the blade with ammonia, or window cleaner containing ammonia.
8. Rinse with cold water.
9 Dry the blade thoroughly, and oil it well with mineral oil, or whatever you currently use to prevent rust.
 
Don’t let the solution run down into the grip.

Uh oh! :eek:

I've etched several blades with FeCl, and in spite of using a protective few layers of masking tape around the guard/bolster/handle area, some contamination usually occurs. Cause bits of a wooden handle to turn a dark grey, and I think it might have contributed to cracking on a few horn handles... what exactly are the risks?
 
Uh oh! :eek:

I've etched several blades with FeCl, and in spite of using a protective few layers of masking tape around the guard/bolster/handle area, some contamination usually occurs. Cause bits of a wooden handle to turn a dark grey, and I think it might have contributed to cracking on a few horn handles... what exactly are the risks?

I'd be scared of corrosion of the tang, but don't really know how much problem it would be. Just didn't "feel" like a good idea to get anything corrosive in there.:)

Steve
 
I'd be scared of corrosion of the tang, but don't really know how much problem it would be. Just didn't "feel" like a good idea to get anything corrosive in there.:)

Steve

Hmm, well, the ones I've already done probably wouldn't TOO much damage then, but I'll probably take precautions in the future and hold 'em handle-up from now on. Unless bizarro gravity kicks in.
 
I'd be scared of corrosion of the tang, but don't really know how much problem it would be. Just didn't "feel" like a good idea to get anything corrosive in there.:)

Steve

If i had a nickel for every time I had this thought, there would be less corrosion in my life:D

Corrosion of Conformity
"Corrosion"-Sisters of Mercy

Mark;)

WOW! Steve, the pattern on the gunong is fabulous.
 
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