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Bowman1911

Bowman1911

Joined
Dec 12, 2010
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I've been posting in the swamp off & on for a couple years now, & I've never seen mention of this before. After seein' the new offerin' from the yard, it made me think, "Ya know, the Ratmandu is the most renowned offerin' ever from the swamp, but only one thing I could do to improve on it." No, no infi, RES-C! Yep, you read that right! I feel, no make that KNOW, a Resperene-mandu would replace all my outdoors blades. So how's about it? Agree/ Disagree? Deathchat?
 
Well since I personally have a strong dislike for Res-C and much prefer micarta slabs and full tang, I will have to say no to this. However with the RMD being as great as it is I am sure a Res-C model would be good.
 
I like canvas, and paper micarta (which my ratmandu is), and I've got prenty of Bussekin in g-10. I've got nothing against any of 'em except they just don't love the hand like res-c does. Heck, I'd settle for a mudder-mandu.
 
Replace RMD... NO!
But it would be close to the top of rotation...
But then, I'd say that Scrapper 5 with it's drop point blade is a very handy camp/utility knife at similar dimensions to RMD...
 
Not interested. The best part of the RMD is the ergos. ResC would ruin that. You want a RMD blade with ResC? Get a 511.
 
al g blenny said:
Not interested. The best part of the RMD is the ergos. ResC would ruin that. You want a RMD blade with ResC? Get a 511.
Click to expand...

But only if you have really small hands! No idea why they used the smaller version of the handle on 511, works on 311, but IMO it is too small for 511.
 
I'd like a RMD with Mudders, no choil. Just grind from the existing choil into a stick full tang. Shorten it up on the butt, and bring the mudders right up to the blade edge.
Mmmmm

Okay, I'll take one without the butt shave too, Leave it longer and leave the choil!!

The RMD is just not the RMD without the choil. ;)
 
I like the micarta on the RMD personally. Res-C is more comfortable to me in larger knives. I like res-c but no as much as micarta.
 
I agree with those above, the micarta on the RMD. Busse already has offered the Res-C basic series, and the Yard had the Scrapper 5. I've read that mudders are made for smaller hands in terms of their girth, better for skinners, so I am curious to find out how well they work on a longer blade like this Mutt. I feel that the smaller basic Res-C handle should be left out, the war-dog style too, and only the larger basics and the mudders used.

Here's a Scrapper 5 pulled from rth548 at the Yard:

IMAG0126.jpg


And here is an RMD and 511 with other similar-sized blades (my own image) - note the enlarged 511 choil-groove:

IMG_0726.JPG
IMG_0734.JPG
 
OK, CG, your 5-11 is mighty close! I'll give ya that, but I still want a res-c ratmandu.
 
Meh, even with the opened choil, the handle is still almost a full inch short because of the birds-beak on the handle. I guess if you have small hands...
I went looking for other images on the web and came across another (by RokJok) comparing the Scrapper 5 to the Basic 5 and another knife I wish they'd re-release, the Bog Dog! Pulled the 2nd image from KnifeGuy at the Yard:

BB5_S5LE_BogDog_4981a.jpg
SwampRat-HRLMConceptBogDogIIBogDogR.jpg


The BogDog is like a drop-point, mudder RMD! The HRLM-mod is pretty cool too, though I like my HRLM as it is...

I am also noticing that the spine 'hump' of the mudder is a little further back than the RMD 'hump', which i suspect is ergonomically inferior to the RMD. Anyone in the Madison, WI area with a mudder knife? :o
 
I like res-c, especially on choppers, but I also like micarta in general and especially like the RMD's handle. Even though I think the utility of my NMFBM would be improved if it had just res-c handle slabs, I wouldn't want them as it's not as aesthetic or classy.

If I could adjust the RMD I'd remove the choil - increasing the cutting edge length, skeletonise or taper the tang making it lighter overall and moving the balance forward, make the grind full-height convex, and move the lanyard hole from the spine of the pommel to the belly.
 
Cole2525 said:
If I could adjust the RMD I'd remove the choil - increasing the cutting edge length, skeletonise or taper the tang making it lighter overall and moving the balance forward, make the grind full-height convex, and move the lanyard hole from the spine of the pommel to the belly.
Click to expand...

I like the choil but think it could be a little closer to the handle, shifting it down would add a little more cutting edge but I'm honestly happy with what is there. The lanyard-hole shift is an interesting idea...
But at this blade-length, which isn't really fit for decent chopping, I see the blade-heavy idea as detrimental - give me even balance. Definitely taper or hollow or skeletonize the tang, but keep the primary grind flat and make it thinner - thinner blade + tapered tang = lighter + even balance + better cutting performance!! :thumbup: Full-height convex just retains weight and reduces penetration :thumbdn: Go ahead and convex the edge bevel (maybe 1/16" wide back to 0.030 or thinner at the shoulder), but keep it thin and light :cool: I really wish the Hog Muk tang was tapered to provide better balance. Perhaps on the Swamp Muk??? Please?
 
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