Evaluate my straight razor plans please

S

Sharphur

Joined
Sep 11, 2011
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18
I've always wanted a straight razor but nice ones are $100-$300 and up. Since I consider myself a novice knife builder I decided to give it a try but I'm a little confused on a couple points.

I ordered the blade from alabama damascus, it'll be here soon. The blade is carbon damascus and will need drying between uses, so I was thinking of putting extra space between the blade and handles for airing out (plus the extra thickness is easier to grip). Should I build a stand that holds it folded out for it to air out or will toweling it off after use be enough?

The handle material will probably be a stabilized black ash, or some other stabilized wood. For fun I plan to inlay some abalone and MOP.

The plan is use titanium sheet as liners, or nickel/silver. I'm not sure how nickel/silver would respond to many years of contact with water. Will N/S react to water? Which liner is a better choice, or do I even need one (some razors I've seen have none)? If I use titanium, do I have to do anything to make it water resistant or does the titanium oxide form from air exposure on it's own?

As far as the pivot, I'll measure when I receive the blade and order from TKS, and I'll use the Nylotron washers. Then the one pin at the other end of the handle is easy enough.

Something I'm lost on is how does the blade stop/sit inside the protection of the handle when not in use. Or does it just swing about freely 360 degrees? Do I put a small pin in as a stop or carve the handle out to have a small bumper?
 
Go to Charlie Lewis's website, www.lewisrazors.com . He has links to youtube videos that will answer most of your questions. Charlie is a good guy and knows his stuff. His razors are the sharpest cutting tools I have EVER held in my hand. I don't think you really need liners on a razor. Nickel Silver will tarnish. I'm not sure about Ti. You probably dont need the washers but I guess they can't hurt. The thickness of the wedge at the rear of the handle determines how deep the blade sits in the handle. Good luck and be sure to post some pics when finished.
 
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Go to Straight Razor Place and post there. There a SEVERAL makers there that help people out. You really should invest in a cheap razor and shave with one for a couple months before attempting to make one. It's obvious based on the questions you asked that you don't have the first clue how straights work. I'm not being an ass, but it really is a bit more complicated than it seems. Everything is much higher precision than knife making.
 
Figured I came off like an arrogant ass in my other post, which was not my intent. I had probably better break it down so I don't sound so mean.

Sharphur said:
I've always wanted a straight razor but nice ones are $100-$300 and up. Since I consider myself a novice knife builder I decided to give it a try but I'm a little confused on a couple points.
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Go to Whippeddog straights. Larry can set you up with a straight razor, strop, and paste balsa for $50. Having a razor in your hand will answer almost all of your questions. Seriously, you need to shave with one before trying to make one or you won't have any idea what you're doing.


so I was thinking of putting extra space between the blade and handles for airing out (plus the extra thickness is easier to grip). Should I build a stand that holds it folded out for it to air out or will toweling it off after use be enough?
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Extra thickness isn't always good, or always bad. Like a knife, balance is key. Extra width can cause issues when stropping and while shaving. You don't actually hold the scales why shaving, not really anyway.

As far as drying, I'm not sure what you mean by extra space. Extra space between the blade and the scales? Not really needed. Wipe the blade with a but of mineral oil after shaving and out it away. Again, shaving with a straight will show you how to do it.

The plan is use titanium sheet as liners, or nickel/silver. I'm not sure how nickel/silver would respond to many years of contact with water. Will N/S react to water? Which liner is a better choice, or do I even need one (some razors I've seen have none)?
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Some razors do, some don't. Most don't. Some people hate them, some love them. I've done black G-10 scales lined with lime green G-10. I've also done plain scales. It comes down to aesthetics and balance while shaving. I've seem brass, aluminum, g-10, and several other materials.

Something I'm lost on is how does the blade stop/sit inside the protection of the handle when not in use. Or does it just swing about freely 360 degrees? Do I put a small pin in as a stop or carve the handle out to have a small bumper?
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Again, get a razor and setup kit from Larry at Whippeddog and this question will seem silly in about two seconds.
But just in case you don't; the blade is usually some degree of hollow ground. The less hollowed portion stops the blade from going all the way through the scales.


I will second Charlie's videos. He goes by spazola over on Straight Razor Place. Also, you must check out Undream's YouTube videos. His name is Brad, and he has a kick ass vid series on restoring a razor.

That actually brings up a good point. Ask Larry to sell you a couple project blades, then restore and rescale them before you make your own. That will teach you a bunch about how they work and how not to make yours.

Check out my posts over there, particularly about my recent grind issue an my ongoing WIP on my first razor, Brian's First Blade. Feel free to pm me here, or preferably on SRP. I hang out in the workshop on that forum. Same screen name.

Brian
 
i woudl say rebuild one before goignn all the way and for sure if you still want to go all the way all at once at least get one thats all beat up to see how it works and how the grind is done

other then that looks like most the bases are covered here but if you have anythinkn other pop up drop me a line
 
great info guys thanks. the handle construction is clearer to me now, especially the width of the space between scales. The blade I ordered arrived today and it's nice. I understand now how the handle's between-space grips the blade's wider portions. The thinness of the blade's edge allows it to slide into the space between scales, but the wider part of the blade rests in contact with the scales. So it'll take some careful measuring and choosing of fasteners/pivots.
 
For the pivot and also for the wedge pin I use 1/8" brass rod peened over. I use brass "washers" (not the right word but drawing a blank) between the scales and tang. Some guys use mechanical fasteners but I prefer brass rod (but that's just personal preference).
 
Man I would have been lost trying to do all this without asking first. I have to admit it's more complex than I thought it would be. Also I had guessed that a knife forum was the place to ask and it didn't occur to me that there were straight razor specific sites. But I'm looking at the info I need now thanks to you guys.

amcardon, so I could use pins or mechanical fasteners, that's good to know. I usually do mechanical fasteners because of how much easier they are to get a nice finish (for me anyway, I should practice peening more).
 
Sharphur said:
Man I would have been lost trying to do all this without asking first. I have to admit it's more complex than I thought it would be. Also I had guessed that a knife forum was the place to ask and it didn't occur to me that there were straight razor specific sites. But I'm looking at the info I need now thanks to you guys.
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Spend some time at SRP and you'll understand why most knife makers make only knives, and most razor makers make only razors. Razor guys are very demanding and can be a little anal about different things.

amcardon, so I could use pins or mechanical fasteners, that's good to know. I usually do mechanical fasteners because of how much easier they are to get a nice finish (for me anyway, I should practice peening more).
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Check out microfasteners.com. Look for #0 or #00 washers in NiAg and brass. Also, TX knife supply has NiAg rod. Brass rod can be found at most hardware stores.
 
i really liek te 1/8 inc folder pivots at tracys site usa knife makers
they use 2-56 screws and 1/8 pivots (i cant peen a pin yto save my life )
dont skip badger and blade as a forum they also have good ppl
 
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