So I just got the evenheat kf27 and did my first batch of knives with it. It worked awesome! The tap controller is great! My one complaint is that where the door closes there is like a 3/16" gap between the door and the oven. I feel it would be much more efficient if I could find some sort of gasket for it. Anyone l of where I could get one? Thanks guys!
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Evenheat kiln door sealing gasket?
- Thread starter Tkrocky
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- Aug 1, 2008
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it should fit the body perfectly but probably got moved in shipping. check and see if there is an adjustment. If not give evenheat a call and tell them about it. Did you get the bill burke special?
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- Feb 5, 2014
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I've got the same issue. I've considered cutting a strip of Kaowool to use as a gasket, but I'm not sure how to attach it. Maybe furnace cement would work as an adhesive, although I haven't tried it.
Right now I just place extra firebrick scraps along the top where the door meets the chamber. It's a pretty useless solution, as it only solves (at most) 1/3 of the problem.
Right now I just place extra firebrick scraps along the top where the door meets the chamber. It's a pretty useless solution, as it only solves (at most) 1/3 of the problem.
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the Bill Burke Special adds an extra bit of insulation around the brick just under the skin of the kiln this helps hold more heat in the oven and prevents the outside from getting so hot. Also I have been working with EH to produce preprogramed hardening and tempering cycle that can be used as is or modified to suit individual taste with a default sequence so if one gets lost they can return to the original program and start over. Hopefully this will soon be incorporated into the new TAP controller.
I was able to find a stove door gasket kit, at Ace Hardware, that I used on my oven, for the very same reason.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1275989&KPID=956133&pla=pla_956133
It's rated at 2000 degrees, which is the highest I ever take my oven, anyways. I've had no issues with it yet. I'd suggest giving it a practice run by attaching some of it to something else, to get the amount of glue correct, since it's a black that will really stand out if it seeps out.
If you have trouble shutting the door because it's too tight, you can just sand some of the material off the door, until it fits nice and snug.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1275989&KPID=956133&pla=pla_956133
It's rated at 2000 degrees, which is the highest I ever take my oven, anyways. I've had no issues with it yet. I'd suggest giving it a practice run by attaching some of it to something else, to get the amount of glue correct, since it's a black that will really stand out if it seeps out.
If you have trouble shutting the door because it's too tight, you can just sand some of the material off the door, until it fits nice and snug.
This is exactly what I imagined, thank you!
Dang why isn't that an option from the get go!! I totally would have went for that!
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- Aug 1, 2008
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actually it is an option and has a line item and number at even heat but who ever orders the oven has to ask for it.
so the gap on your door is adjusted as follows, with the oven cold and turned off/ unplugged stand it on end vertically with the door up. place a .020 shim of paper plastic or metal along the edge or the door on the hinge side. loosen the hinge screws or door mounts whatever need to let the door close solid against the kiln opening and shim. retighten what you loosened so the door would move into proper position. that is all there is to it. In the event that there is not enough movement the holes for the hinge screws can be filed into a slot so the door will close properly.
the slight .020 inch gap on the hinge side of the door is necessary to allow for the bricks to move and expand as they heat up. if this gap is not present the expansion can cause the door to pop open.
Man, my Evenheat door closes slam shut with no gap straight from the factory. The spring assist locking mechanism keeps it frog asss tight. My input is, "its an oven", not a sealed enclosure. It does not need to be air tight.
I doubt you ht your blades in your EH kiln in a 20 mph wind outside your shop. There is so much thermal pressure inside your small internal volume kiln, the "crack" your breaking your head about is insignificant.
Chill out, wiggle the door as tight as it will close and push start
I doubt you ht your blades in your EH kiln in a 20 mph wind outside your shop. There is so much thermal pressure inside your small internal volume kiln, the "crack" your breaking your head about is insignificant.
Chill out, wiggle the door as tight as it will close and push start
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Yeah all that "thermal pressure" is coming straight out of my wallet. I'm not breaking my head, just keeping my stuff running how I want it. Easy fix